Note: AMAKA’s Braid vs Twists article is an editorial guide and readers should visit an African / Black hair specialist when it comes to their own hair and protective styles.
Black women have an array of hairstyles available from Box braids, Passion twists, Senegalese twists, weaves to wearing our own hair. Due to the fragility of African hair, however, Black women wear protective hairstyles to minimise manipulation, breakage, lock in moisture and ultimately boost hair growth. With so many hairstyles on offer, we want to opt for a style that not only complements our look, but benefits our hair in the future. Which style reduces breakage and promotes hair growth? We will hear what African hair specialists have to say in the battle between braids and twists.
Box braids vs twists
A Nigerian mobile hairdresser, who chose to remain anonymous, says box braids are better for the hair “because they save them [the clients] a lot more time.” A Gambian hairstylist, who also chose to remain anonymous, similarly revealed “single plaits [also known as braids] are better for the hair because with a twist you can have a hair breakage, so single is the best option if you are trying to regrow your hair.”
Fola, a Nigerian hair specialist and owner of StylesbyFola disclosed: “Twists and braids both have advantages, they are both protective styles. Some people twist from the roots and it creates more tension for the scalp. If you do the braids from the roots, you should do it from an inch or half an inch. In terms of protective styles, they are both good for the hair. There are different kinds of twists, it depends on the hair. Kinky twists — the hair is much lighter...If you are braiding your hair it lasts longer than twists because it locks in more. If you are not plaiting with extension, there is less pressure on the hair...twists and braids are both protective styles but in terms of durability, braids will last longer.”
Rashida Russell, who is half Nigerian and owner of Boombastic Braids, claims knotless braids are the best style for the hair “because it is less tension on the scalp. You feed the hair into the braids. It gives the hair more exposure. Also, the weight of the knotless braids as well — knotless braids tend to be much lighter, it gives less tension,” she says.
The winning twist
Regarding the best twist style, Fola says, “I would say probably Marley twist because it is not as heavy. Marley twist is when the hair is Afro kinky so it’s made to look like dreadlocks. The Afro kinky is a closer texture to our hair so if you use that, it looks like your hair, so you can have it in for longer...if you don’t have as much weight on your hair, your hair won’t have as much tension. In terms of the Passion twist, the hair is not straight, it's curly. It’s not made to look neat. Out of the three [Passion twist, Senegalese twist, Marley twists] the Passion twist is in the middle. I would say the Marley twist is up there. If you like the rough look, I would say the Marley twist. It depends on your style, it depends on your look and which one you really want to go for. It depends on the texture of your hair and your hair density, as well. You have to have the section that would be able to hold the braiding so that the weight is not too much for the hair.”
Similar to Fola, Russell credited the Marley twist as the superlative twist style. “In terms of less tension and weight, Marley twists,” she reveals. “Marley twists are lightweight. Marley twists are kinkier. As the hair gets older, it looks more natural on the hair so you are getting value for your money.”
Understanding Black hair growth
When asked which style promotes hair growth, the anonymous Gambian hairstylist says braids. She explains, “twist damages the hair. Twist, sometimes you lose your hairline. Single [braids] make your hair grow evenly.” However, Fola says, “I think all hair makes the hair grow faster because one, they are all protective styles and two, when we plait hair, the pressure we apply we kind of activate the blood pressure of the scalp.” She once again praises Marley twists saying, “I think Marley twist is good because when you plait, you are activating the scalp.”
Russell has a slightly different perspective regarding hair growth. She reveals, “It is more about how you take care of the hair while the hair is inside the braids. It is all about keeping your hair moisturised so spraying it with oil, water, leave-in conditioner. Protective styles are good because there is less manipulation — you don’t have to style your hair everyday.”
The furthest stretch
In terms of which style stretches the hair more, the anonymous Nigerian mobile hairdresser believes it is twists. “When you are braiding the hair, there are a lot more curls involved. When you do [the] twist styles, you are not interlocking it. Twists do not create a lot of curls. Afro hair that is prone to shrinking, when you twist it, it helps to stretch it out,” she explains. The Gambian hairstylist claims, “single plaits stretches the hair more,” adding, “twists still stretches the hair, but makes you lose your hairline.”
Fola, however, suggests braids stretch the hair more, “It depends on the hair you use, as well. I would say what stretches the hair more is the design, how long they leave the hair for, the section of the hair, the extension of the hair...all those things actually matter, the weight of the braids matters.” Russell makes an interesting point regarding stretch,
“A good stretching style is not necessarily a braiding style, but I would say threading with string.” Yet, between braids and twists she says, “mainly box braids and knotless braids.”
The best hair retention
When asked which style minimises breakage, the Nigerian mobile hairdresser explains, “twists because there is less manipulation, the same reason why it stretches the hair.” In contrast, the Gambian hairstylist states “single plaits because your hair is not out, it is always inside the plaits. You are not doing anything with it, you are not brushing it, everything is in.”
Maintaining her stance on Marley twist, Fola states “I think I would go for Marley twist...the extension is light. Marley twists you can leave it for a long time, it’s not heavy. In terms of the hair length as well, I think braids keep your hair length because it locks it inside more than the twist. In terms of the roots and the weight, I think braids.”
Marley twists v box braids
Each protective style is unique in its own way and offers many advantages to the hair. Yet, there are some styles that have been approved by hair specialists more than others. Box braids seems to be the winning hairstyle as it was the recommended style against twist. It was also reported to stretch the hair more and in turn accelerate hair growth more than the others. Knotless braids, in particular, are claimed to stretch the hair more and reduce breakage. Nonetheless, Marley twist is crowned the best twist style as it lessens breakage and promotes hair growth out of the various twists. Whichever style takes your fancy, you can enjoy the benefits each style brings.