In recent years, cowrie shell-inspired fashion trends have made headlines on the global fashion stage, prompting many to look back at the origin of cowrie shells and their connection with African culture. In the African setting, cowrie shells have different meanings and themes. Primarily associated with wealth and prosperity, they also symbolise a robust tool used for traditional spiritual practices.

Believed to be introduced to Africans in the 8th century by Arab traders, the cowrie shell is a small, glossed, porcelain-like shell that is typically light beige in colour. It has an oval structure with an anterior aperture that splits the shell in half. In the 18th century, the tiny mollusc became a popular form of currency within the Mali empire, leading it to be the most preferred form of money along the route of West Africa. Some of the reasons for its popularity included its lightweight and non-perishable nature, as well as its difficulty to be forged.

Widely believed to be adorned on the clothing of warriors, dancers and the wealthiest families back then, this artistic piece holds vital spiritual roles within African communities. An article published in the Cambridge Archaeological Journal points out that "the particular qualities of the shell imbued it with culturally-specific value. It is suggested that cowries, as part of divination sets, were active in divination because of their white colour and their origin in the (maritime) ancestral realm that anchored divination in notions of ancestry, fertility and healing". Used for charms and fetish worship, the cowrie shell is imperative among the Ewe people in Togo. These charms are worn around the neck, arm, wrist, and ankle for luck, and are also regarded as talismans against wounds and sickness.

In South Africa, the sangomas, who are well respected traditional healers, use cowrie shells for healing purposes. They use it in powder form, which is widely believed to be effective in the healing process. Also, cowrie shells and bones are used in fortune-telling as part of their practice in determining the future and fate of those brave enough to ask. 

Despite its valuableness among African traders in ancient African societies, French colonial masters introduced the Franc, which African people strongly resisted until the 1940s. Paying homage to Africa's rich culture, African designers and artists have found an exciting way to give the cowrie a refreshing look and make them popular again while preserving their significance. 

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Reconnecting to a strong heritage

For many African designers, the cowrie is more than just a piece of art; it is their narrative, identity, and history. That is why any work they create tells the world a story that has never been told before. Moreso, fashion lovers are embracing the cowrie as a way of reconnecting with their tangible African heritage. Proponents of Black culture like Beyonce, Solange Knowles, and Alicia Keys have used this cultural piece to promote African heritage and inspire conversations through their music. With a powerful charm to enhance beauty, the cowrie is often used together with ornamental beads, worn in the hair and for decorating purposes. Most designers have used it to create unique pieces of artwork that can be worn and used daily.

One of them is famous Ivorian designer, Lafalaise Dion, also known as the queen of cowrie shells. She has placed cowrie shells on a global stage with her seductive designs. Using her work to reconnect with her ancestral power, the visual artist from Man uses cowrie shells as her primary medium to produce her work. She collaborates with local artisans in Abidjan, Ivory Coast, to create distinct and "striking designs which honour the divine feminine". Her Face mask, Lagbadja, which means an unknown man, made a stunning appearance in Beyonce's Spirit music video. Her work for the Black is King film was a masterpiece that told a strong African story. 

In an interview with Harpers Bazaar, stylist, Zerina Akers, stated why it was a must to include the cowrie in Beyonce's The Lion King, "The use of the cowrie shells was a nod to when they were used as currency. To have them present and on the body in the film was a nod to that opulence and the past."

Another topnotch designer using cowrie shells is UK born artist, Melissa Simon-Hartman. She creates striking designs through her eponymous Melissa Simon-London's brand, and her Cowrie Shell Rebellion Belt, which Beyonce wore in 'Mood 4 Eva', remains "her most high-profile project".

Known as Pétaw in the Senegambian setting, the upcoming Gambian owned brand, Aajiya, is making its way into the fashion world using the cowrie. In September, American actress Gabrielle Union was spotted wearing a piece from the brand's Pétaw collections.

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A Legacy That Will Live Forever

In the fashion world, embracing African inspired designs has paved the way for cowrie's acceptance globally. Apart from the fashion perspective, referencing the Ghana cedi and books like Things Fall Apart by Nigeria's Chinua Achebe, the cowrie is here to stay. This is cemented by the fact that spiritually, it is still used by sangomas in South Africa and other traditional healers across the African continent. 

This valuable culture has been preserved by Africans for many decades, passing it from one generation to another and never losing its significance.