From Ivory Coast to South Africa, a new mix of up-and-coming, women-owned labels is emerging, taking its inspiration from local cultures, fully embracing their heritage, and looking to ancient-old techniques to create something new and fresh. Characterized by daring colours, craftsmanship, sustainability, and a desire to support artisan communities, here are five womenswear labels to keep on your radar now.

Hamaji, Kenya

Built on the values of transparency, conscious consumerism, and craftsmanship, Kenyan label Hamaji draws its inspiration from vintage Nomadic textiles. A graduate of Fedisa Cape Town, Kenya-born and raised founder Louise Sommerlatte launched the label in 2017 as a womenswear offering and has since added a menswear line. Sommerlatte creates her collections from second-hand fabrics and works with a community of artisans in rural Kenya while her trinkets and jewels are sourced from Nigerian tradesmen who travel around East and West Africa, Yemen, and the Middle East collecting precious gems. Sommerlatte’s vision is rendered in breezy botanical dresses and casual two-piece sets, naturally dyed and hand-embroidered with beads or cowry shells. The label's small-scale productions offer one-of-a-kind creations that favour comfort and propose an elegant approach to everyday style. 

Kaalag, Côte d’Ivoire

Formed by sisters Anta and Asna in 2019 to explore their cross-cultural experiences and Ivorian-Senegalese identity, Kaalag, meaning amulet in the indigenous language of Wolof in Senegal, celebrates spirituality and the philosophy of Ubuntu, which is based on showing humanity to others. “The project was part of an exploration process of who we are and how we identify ourselves in society,” the pair told Metal magazine in February. Kaalag’s latest collection features vivid prints on equally colourful clothing, with voluminous shapes that fold, wrap, and curl around the body, accompanied with the label's first jewellery collection. The duo insists that they don’t have one particular aesthetic but rather “changing moods” that reflect the siblings' style at a particular point in time. 

Kayadua, Ghana

Eyiwaa Agyekumhene is the founder and designer behind Kayadua, a men’s and women’s label based in Ghana. Agyekumhene, who graduated from Kwame Nkrumah University of Ghana, majoring in fibre and fabrics, launched the label in 2018 as a way to build a fashion community. Her pieces are deeply rooted in storytelling and are designed to be passed down from generation to generation, a philosophy she learned growing up with older women who taught her the value of traditional craftwork.

In a short time, the label has amassed a following for its striking accessories including a 43 inch long crochet statement neckpiece that comes in various colours like lime green and black. Her garments, on the other hand, are charged with bohemian vibes and play around with shape and form. Agyekumhene’s big goal is to grow the artisan industry in Ghana and that will in turn create more jobs. “I have a vision to build a fashion house that helps to create a strong artisanal team here in Ghana by training and teaching [crafts] like weaving, beading and embroidery,” she revealed to OE magazine. 

Pepper Row, Nigeria

Winner of this year’s Fashion Scout One’s To Watch Award, Pepper Row is a Lagos-based unisex label driven by a zero-waste approach to design. Founded in 2018, by Omafume Niemogha, the label is rooted in exploring traditional crafts and works with local artisans to produce handwoven textiles and wood-carved accessories. Fusing her Nigerian heritage and craftsmanship with a global aesthetic, Niemogha’s garments are defined by artful and sometimes offbeat details, bold colours, contrasting patterns, and native textiles all driven by a contemporary and eccentric spirit. Her collections consist of brightly-coloured Aso Oke handwoven jumpsuits, Adire hand-dyed shirts and what the designer calls ‘3D abstract wiggle skirts’ with all over cushion-like motifs. 

Taku Dlamini, Zimbabwe

Taku Dlamini is a South Africa-based women’s label inspired by founder Takudzwa Dlamini’s Zimbabwean heritage. The LISOF (now known as Stadio) graduate who started her label in 2019 makes straightforward and minimal pieces that champion a streamlined wardrobe of beloved classics, meant to transcend the seasonal trend-driven cycle of the fashion industry. Dlamini’s goal is to empower women with non-restricting clothes that challenge the ‘standard’ female form. “My aim is to redefine and subvert societal views around being a woman [..] to offer a new version of femininity, while simultaneously celebrating women through the fusion of fashion and art,” the designer explained to 10and5. This vision translates to baggy tailored shorts, essential white shirts in exaggerated cuts, pleated culottes, and a slip dress with a layered panel—almost all in cool navy, the colour of freedom, that motivates her designs and influences her loose-fitting aesthetic.