Elodie Fromenteau and Joselyne Umutoniwase are part of a new generation of fashion designers at the forefront of Rwanda’s evolving fashion scene. In addition to creating job opportunities and helping to develop their local industry, these entrepreneurs are also symbolising a new era for Rwanda and its nascent fashion industry.
AMAKA talked to both designers about the shifting landscape of the fashion industry and what the future holds.
Elodie Fromenteau (IZUBAA)
Street style aficionado and stylist-turned-fashion designer, Elodie Fromenteau, launched her womenswear and gender-fluid fashion label, Izubaa, in 2021. The French-Rwandan creative says she developed her strong sense of style from experimenting with colour and patterns as a child growing up in Cameroon — where she spent her formative years before moving to France. Drawing inspiration from the ‘80s and ‘90s style, her garments are characterised by loose-filling silhouettes in bright tones, colour-blocked power suits and easy-going tailoring. Fromenteau tells us about her journey from her background in English literature to working for Armani in London.
You initially studied English Literature in university. What inspired you to shift to fashion?
I studied English Literature and American civilization in Toulouse (the French city) thinking I would become an English teacher in France. I moved to London when I was 20, in the middle of my studies, to perfect my English. I planned to go back to France a year later but I loved it there and felt it had more to give me. My interest in styling came when I started working for Armani in central London.
Can you tell us the story behind the name Izubaa? What does it mean?
Izuba means sunshine in Kinyarwanda. When I started working on my first collection the name Izubaa came to me right away. I was originally going to call my brand eloMelo which is my Instagram username and call my first collection Izubaa but eloMelo was already taken, and a friend of mine suggested I keep Izubaa as a brand name and it made so much sense. The name is strong and catchy and most importantly the meaning behind Izubaa reflects my journey back home.
You’ve said that your designs are inspired by the ‘80s and ‘90s. What about that era stands out for you?
I love the ‘80s and the ‘90s so much. That era was bold in every way and the art scene was booming. People wore bright colours, and crazy prints, mismatching everything fearlessly to look good. I loved the shoulder pads and the oversized jackets sometimes cinched by a belt at the waist. YSL’s smoking suit and Grace Jones were such a huge inspiration to me. And of course, my mother who was dressed elegantly at the time.
What are your values as a brand?
Izubaa highly values the idea of freedom, self-expression and authenticity. The idea of fashion as a way to express yourself while being authentic is at the core of the brand. Having fun with what you are wearing and being free to play with different shapes, colours and patterns is something we would like to inspire people to do more.
How would you describe the fashion scene in Rwanda right now and how is it changing?
I think the fashion scene in Rwanda is moving slowly but surely. There’s a wave of new young designers I saw during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Kigali last May who are pushing boundaries. They use fashion as art and as a form of self-expression to tell stories and create dialogues between different generations.
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Joselyne Umutoniwase (Rwanda Clothing)
Joselyne Umutoniwase established Rwanda Clothing in 2012 when she realised there was a desire for locally made, contemporary garments. Though she studied film directing and editing (due to a lack of fashion schools at the time), fashion was something she was interested in even as a young child. Growing up, Umutoniwase would spend her school holidays at her uncle's atelier studying the art of garment construction. Designing for children, women and men, she sources fabrics like Kitenge and Kikoi from East and West Africa. Her latest collection features tailored and glossy matching sets in navy and checked jackets in orange hues as well as youthful woven skirts and dresses with fringe detailing.
Over the years you’ve expanded from ready-to-wear to couture and home decor. What’s the formula to your success?
There is no formula for success. Success isn’t something you can calculate but it is something you learn through trial and error. If I talk about the expansion of the brand from ready-to-wear to couture and home decor I will say that it was a natural growth. Moreover, we listened to the customer’s needs and followed our 10-year plan.
From your experience, what has been the biggest challenge about running a fashion brand in Rwanda?
The demand for contemporary and high-end fashion is still small. Introducing and growing a brand like Rwanda Clothing was hard because the local market was saturated with second-hand and made-in-China products. There’s also a lack of skills. For the past ten years, I’ve had to train people to be able to create all our products.
What are your values as a brand?
What makes our brand special is the ability to tell a Rwandan story of resilience and strength and connect people. We use fashion to create unique styles for each individual who comes to our shop. As a woman and a mother, this industry isn’t an easy one but a decade later I am still here sharing the beauty of fashion.
How would you describe the fashion scene in Rwanda now? How is it changing?
When I was growing up there were no fashion schools in Rwanda but now there are some places where you can learn tailoring and basic fashion knowledge. We still don’t have professional fashion schools but people now have access to training and short courses.
What are your goals for the future?
My goal for the future is to create a professional fashion school where students can learn about the industry and how to create a successful brand.