In January of 2021, I decided to do the big chop — again. I initially started re-growing an afro after I’d cut my dreadlocks in August 2020. I had them for four years. My locs have always been my pride, they stood for strength, and when the pandemic took its toll on me, I put them down. It's something I’d been contemplating. I woke up one morning, took a pair of scissors, and started cutting.
My older brother, who’s had dreadlocks for almost two decades, was hurt. He didn't speak to me for about a week. But I felt lighter — as if something was lifted off my shoulders.
While I dreaded what was to come, what lied ahead, and how "others" would receive me, it felt good. I looked beautiful, too. As I’m growing out my afro, I’m reminded of how it feels to start something new.
This journey has been exciting, but with growth comes its challenges. When my hair was shorter, I got to experiment a lot. By now, I had forgotten what it’s like to use a comb. I started with bhambatha, short afro hair that is well combed and patted for a "neater" look. This hairstyle is quite common amongst the members of Shembe, also known as The Nazareth Baptist Church. According to biblical texts related to Nazaritism, members of the Shembe church are not allowed to shave or trim their hair. To them, afro hair is holy, hence, they keep it natural.
I later moved to Lalas. For those unfamiliar, it is short hair that’s been flattened using styling gel. It was my favourite, well that was until I got tired of it and cut my hair even shorter and coloured it platinum. Then the December fever hit, and with that came the festive excitement, which, needless to say; the fever caught up with me. I dyed it blonde before cutting again in January to start afresh.
You know that period when your hair is in that germination phase, and you feel like you look like a boy? That’s where I’m at. It’s one of the most frustrating stages, but hey, it passes.
Jenine Jellars speaks about that frustration stage in one of her books, The Natural Newbie Guide, where she shares her hair journey and tips on how to grow natural hair. At some point, she even wanted to relax her hair but didn't succumb to the pressure. She was patient enough to allow her hair to grow.
But that's not the case with me. I want to do braids sooner than later, so I am constantly exploring hairstyles that can help aid the growth of short afro hair. I started with a spider web. I gave this hairstyle that name because to create it, I twist my hair and then use pantyhose strings to connect the twists in a spiderweb form. This is to ensure the twists stay tight. I could’ve used wool but, sometimes it causes hair breakage and doesn’t stretch like pantyhose.
And then this month I did Benny & Betty. It’s one of the older hairstyles named after a book by Donald Dallas that I read in primary school. And yes, it was popular in the early 2000s. It’s safe to say it’s back on trend (not that it ever went out of style), but when Rihanna does it, you know that it’s certified. She wore the hairstyle at her Fenty Skin virtual-pre party launch in July of last year.
But with me, it’s something I keep under my wig because I’m in the process of growing an afro. It’s one of those things you have to do to get closer to the goal, I guess.
One Saturday afternoon at the Easy Waves brunch in Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa, Sandton, I learned that most people with afro hair share similar hair problems.
Thandi Phakathi, a naturalista who has had her afro for three years, is still concerned about shrinkage. When exposed to water, afro hair tends to shrink. However, there are ways to stretch it without using artificial heat like a warm blow dryer. All you need to do is detangle your hair before washing it. You can use a detangling mist. It helps reduce the knots, which makes it easier to brush the hair. Brushing afro hair can be intolerant, especially if it’s a coarse, 4c type. This is why you shouldn't skip detangling. Brushing your hair will also make it dry quicker. If it’s long, it’s best to brush in sections using a paddle brush. But if it's short like mine, an afro comb would do.
Don't forget to twist. If you want your afro hair to look good, get used to twisting it because shrinkage is real. Twisting before going to bed is advisable, it makes it easier to style your afro hair in the morning. And don't forget to wear that silk bonnet.
As I said, everyone has their hair problems, and for my friend Ntswaki Malebo, dry scalp is an issue. She has dandruff, and back in the days when she used to relax her hair, her scalp would burn.
If you’re also suffering from the same fate, no need to panic; here’s what you can do to help reduce dandruff:
Exfoliate
Take a rat tail comb and gently brush the flakes from the scalp. This will help remove dandruff that has caused build-up on the scalp.
Massage
After exfoliating, you have to wash your hair with a shampoo and conditioner. As you wash it, gently massage the scalp with your fingers. This will help soothe the scalp while removing the flakes.
Cleanse
Now that your hair is washed, cleanse it with water mixed with a few teaspoons of apple cider vinegar. The cleanser helps thoroughly remove all the flakes residue.
Moisturise
Water is moisture, hence, it's wise to moisturise your hair while it is still damp. I usually mix coconut oil, castor oil, olive oil, and tea tree oil. The oils keep the scalp nourished, resulting in healthy hair.
Reneé Potgieter, natural hair health activist, has helped us put together more tips for taking care of textured hair types:
Don’t Over Wash Your Hair
A wash routine for afro hair is unlike any other. It’s advisable to wash it bi-weekly. However, if you’re exposed to activities such as exercise, going to the beach, or environmental factors like a windy dusty day and smoke-filled rooms, then you might have to wash your hair once a week.
Use a Gentle Shampoo
If you use a gentle shampoo that is sensitive to the scalp’s pH level, you should be able to wash your hair as often as needed. Just remember — less is more no matter what hair type. Rinsing, then nourishing your hair with a conditioner is also effective.
Be Selective with Your Products
Our hair is usually exposed to unavoidable impurities. These include chlorine and chemical treatments, like tinting or bleaching. Also, the overuse of products causes build-up that results in real nourishment being blocked from penetrating the hair and scalp. That alone can result in the hair being weighed down. All products you see on shelves have been well marketed. It’s important to choose the ones suitable for your hair type and cater to your needs. A good place to start is by checking if the products are sulphate, alcohol, and paraben-free.
Be Gentle with Interventions
Playing with your hair is fun, but you have to be mindful of the styles you choose. Protective hairstyles like braids or cornrows are popular within the natural hair community, but they can put a strain on your hair. If too tight, they can cause the hairline to recede. That is why you must make them a bit loose and make sure your scalp stays moisturised.
My good friend, Sithabile Kuuya, a natural hair YouTuber, emphasises that people with afro hair should speak about growth and positivity upon their hair.
"My hair is my glory. She is beautiful, she is healthy, she grows gloriously with each new day. Everything from the universe, nature, and our bodies has the intelligence to hear us which is why I constantly speak affirmatively to my hair-thanking her for the progress she's made and speaking growth and positivity over her. Yes, she is me and I love and am grateful to have her as my crown and glory," she would say.
I, too, have adopted affirming my hair growth and celebrating every progress.
Take care of your afro hair, and enjoy every process while at it.