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Please note: If you are having any issues with your hair, braids or any protective styles, please make an appointment with your local hairdresser or a hair specialist.
Braids are one of the most popular hairstyles around 一 and the great thing about them? They come in a number of different colours, styles and fibers to suit all hair textures. Braids are normally affordable and require little maintenance, lasting from six to eight weeks.
My experience with braids
Braids are considered a protective hairstyle, and I remember in August when I went to Indalo Nubian Naturals Hair Salon in Soweto to re-install my dreadlocks. They told me my afro was still short and that it needed to be at least 5cm long to do the procedure. I then did a hair analysis, and one of the stylists told me that to help aid hair growth, I must do braids. However, I was advised against thin braids as they might damage my hairline. So, I did box braids and could already see the difference in my hair growth.
Unpacking the myths around braids
I spoke to Thomas Tsheola, also known as ‘Kholo the Hair Doctor.’ Tsheola is a head stylist at Darling Hair with 20 years of experience in South Africa’s beauty and hair industry.
Speaking about debunking myths around hair growth, Tsheola explains that one of the most common myths on hair growth is that all braids are good for your hair.
“This statement is false. When it comes to braids, it all depends on the styling or the person braiding them,” Tsheola says, “Some braids put a lot of pressure on hair follicles that are supposed to only cope with the weight of the hair you grow. Adding extensions to your [cornrows] or sewing in a weave can cause a lot of pressure on your scalp.”
The award-winning hairstylist reveals that another myth around hair growth is the need to constantly oil and grease your scalp to help your hair grow. “This is a false narrative that needs to stop. If your hair is dry, it will need to be hydrated with water-based products, not oils,” he shares, “Oils are way more beneficial to lock in moisture, so after you have applied hydrating water-based products, like a good leave-in conditioner, then you can apply the oil on top. However, be careful of the grease baths on your scalp.”
Jawad Maphoto, Miss South Africa sponsor and a salon owner who has been in the industry for over 15 years, admits that when it comes to braids, they can either aid or break your hair. Breakage happens when you fail to manage your braids and leave them in for too long. And when it comes to hair growth, braids can help aid length retention provided that you follow all the necessary steps in keeping your hair healthy whilst wearing them.
“Braiding your hair will help you notice hair growth if you wear the braids for the minimum time recommended. Braids are a protective style, so they help protect hair from constant breakage and other factors. Braids will not make your hair grow faster than it already does, but will help retain length and therefore in a way aid the growth process. It’s especially important to make sure that you take care of your scalp and still wash your hair while wearing braids. Also, make sure your hairline is protected because that’s the most fragile part of the scalp,” Maphoto says.
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How to take care of braids
Keep in mind that your hair won’t spontaneously grow just because it’s braided. There are ways in which you have to maintain those braids to help your hair grow longer.
Everyday braid maintenance
1) Condition your scalp with a light, all-natural oil 2-3 times a week.
2) Use conditioning braid spray with anti-itch formulation on your braids daily to keep your scalp happy and the hair underneath the braids healthy.
3) If you sweat a lot, take a cotton swab and some Sea Breeze Astringent and run it along your scalp to keep itch-causing residue at bay.
4) Use a light oil sheen spray on your braids to add a healthy shine.
1) Wear a silk or satin scarf every night to keep your braids frizz-free and smooth.
2) Sleep on a silk or satin pillowcase in case the scarf falls off.
General braid care tips
1) Make sure your braider doesn’t put your braids tightly. It doesn’t make them last any longer, and it pulls your hair out.
2) Don’t ever leave your braids in for more than 12 weeks. Every 6-8 weeks is the best time to take them out and give your hair a break before moving on to another protective style.
3) Wash your braids once every 1-2 weeks with diluted shampoo. Focus on your scalp, letting the suds travel down to the ends of the braids.
4) Don’t use creamy conditioners on braids. They cause build up and that makes knots form at the base of the braids.
5) After you shampoo and apply leave-in conditioner, make sure your braids completely dry afterwards. Such will prevent damage to your hair from mildew.
Many people downplay the importance of a leave-in conditioner. This product is one of the most important when it comes to hair care. According to Maphoto, a leave-in conditioner hydrates hair, fortifies it and prevents tangling and breakage, therefore supporting hair growth to a certain extent.
“It’s more about putting moisture into the hair, that’s the first step of taking care of your hair,” Maphoto explains. “You start with a leave-in conditioner, and then the rest follows. It is an important product that stays in your hair, making it easier to deal with the aftercare.”
He adds that although some people think heat damages the hair, that is not necessarily always the case. It depends on the type of hair and the amount of heat used on that specific hair. “Also, people need to understand the amount of heat needed and the technique to use during the heat application on the hair. Heat is like any other product or treatment that has the potential to pose a threat to the hair, but it needs people who understand how to approach it so that it can benefit you. It’s a process that needs to be understood,” he says.
Hair grows naturally, however, protective styles like braids can help aid the growing process by reducing breakage and preventing other factors that affect the hair such as tension and friction.
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The stages of hair growth
Becks Moloi, a product advisor at Pure Royal, states that hair is continuously growing. It only appears as if it is not growing due to factors that retard the natural growth rate and pattern of hair. Moloi, who has been in the hair industry for over 20 years, explains the growth of hair in the following three phases.
The Anagen Phase
Also known as the growing stage, the anagen phase is where the hair begins in the papilla and can last from 2 to 6 years. It is determined by genetics. The longer this stage, the longer the hair will grow. About 85 percent of the hairs on one’s head are in this stage.
The Catagen Phase
It is also called the transitional phase. This stage allows the follicle to renew itself. It lasts for two weeks, and the follicle shrinks due to disintegration. The papilla detaches, cutting the hair strand off from its nourishing blood supply, and then the hair shaft is pushed upward, giving birth to new hair.
The Telogen phase
It is the resting stage where the hair remains dormant from 1 to 4 months. At some point, the hair follicle will begin to grow again, breaking free from the root. Within two weeks, the new hair shaft will start to emerge.
Hair loss and what causes it
Some people follow all the necessary steps, but still find it difficult to grow their hair. Instead, they suffer from hair loss, which can be challenging to deal with.
Hair loss is a common concern among women of all ages and ethnicities. There are various reasons you may be experiencing it, and in most cases, you will need to consult an expert to determine the cause.
Some of the most common factors that influence hair loss include lifestyle, tension hairstyles and genetics.
Lifestyle
Stress and an unhealthy diet can lead to hair loss. According to John Hopkins Medicine, many women report experiencing hair loss during severely stressful periods of their lives. Fortunately, the hair grows back after the stressful period ends.
Tension hairstyles
Traction alopecia refers to a type of hair loss that occurs when the hair is repeatedly pulled. It can be caused by high-tension hairstyles such as braids and dreadlocks (which is why you must talk to your stylist beforehand and tell them not to make your braids too tight).
Genetics
Certain types of hair loss are genetic, and unfortunately, there is very little that can be done about it. But thanks to the likes of Dr. Ahmed Al-Qahtani who’s created a follicle-stimulating formula to help those suffering from hair loss.
Dr. Al-Qahtani's Advanced Hair Complex Plus formulation works by nourishing hair follicles to a more functional and healthy state. The product helps improve the overall condition of the scalp and damaged hair follicles while working to increase the circulation of select growth factor proteins found in healthy hair follicles.
If your braids are very painful and show no signs of improvement, or you notice bumps on your hairline and scalp, have them taken out. Once you’ve had them removed, give your hair and scalp some extra care by massaging it and refrain from wearing any protective styles until your scalp has completely healed.
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