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Discovering your signature scent is like a rite of passage into womanhood.After a near-decade blotting my way through a slew of bottles and vials, it was only this year that I encountered a blend that encapsulated me. And it wasn’t a singular fragrance per se but rather a marriage of isolated notes. Much like a painting, fragrance notes are what make a perfume whole. Envision a pyramid structure with a top, middle, and base tier — each with individual accords that merge to create one unique scent.
Top vs. middle vs. base
Top notes always make the first impression; they are the scents that reel us in and steadily unveil the middle notes. Middle notes are the heart and core of a fragrance, shaping and guiding the overall aroma, while base notes add depth and potency for a lasting impression that lingers on skin.
Notes like jasmine, orange blossom, rose, tonka bean and vanilla are my kryptonite. I’m a sucker for floral, citrus, and decadent scents. Auravera Being At Peace, Valentino Voce Viva, Burberry Her, and Marc Jacobs Daisy are just a handful of the scents that I have on heavy rotation. And despite each possessing a unique personality, I later discovered similarities in their base notes. A perfumer will describe this as notes born from the same 'fragrance family' — an alignment that allowed me to mix and match to create a scent of my own. Only later, I discovered that this was the very essence of fragrance layering.
The origin of perfume cocktailing
Often chronicled in the West as a contemporary practice, fragrance layering is actually a long-established custom in Middle Eastern culture. As explained in ELLE, “Throughout the Arab world, both men and women approach fragrance ritualistically, layering on multiple oils, or attars (such as musk, oud, rose, or jasmine), and even infusing their clothing and hair with smoke from an incense-like concoction called bakhoor before spraying on perfume.” Today, we see echoes of the Middle Eastern tradition in new age fragrance labels with the popularization of personalized perfumes and fragrance customization in self-care habits — through the melding of fragrant body lotions, butters, oils, and mists to foster your bespoke scent. But like all intricate beauty rituals, there are guidelines to mastering the art. Some key pointers to keep in mind…
1. Layering is all about experimenting
The golden rule is there are no rules — uncovering a fragrant blueprint through the layering of harmonious and contrasting scents requires an element of fun, so play around and find a combination that speaks to you. A general rule of thumb to begin with — if you have intense or rich notes as your base layers, try coating these with complementary notes, a method that will soften and lift your composition.
Most perfumers recommend the following pairings:
- Citrus and spice
- Floral and spice
- Floral and wood
- Vanilla and wood
This is because these are favoured and beginner-friendly blends. Also, make sure to keep an eye out for any parallel notes, i.e. scents from the same fragrance family, as these aid in creating better balance and harmony in your mix.
Editor’s picks: summer scents (you can easily layer up)
For daytime, Maya Njie Vanilj Eau de Parfum, $130 for 50ml.
A warm and sweet scent. Key notes include vanilla, cardamom, patchouli, musk, cedarwood, and amber.
For date night, Maya Njie Tobak Eau de Parfum, $130 for 50ml.
A spicy, earthy, and woody scent. Key notes include tobacco leaf, vetiver, cinnamon, musk, and leather.
For your tropical vacay, Maya Njie Tropica Eau de Parfum, £90 for 50ml.
A fresh and exotic scent. Key notes include citrus, pineapple, Mediterranean fig, coconut, and sandalwood.
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2. Fragrance layering isn't limited to only two scents
We’ve encountered people who can mist up to 5-10 fragrances on a good day, but that requires a different type of skill set gained after countless trials and errors. As highlighted before, it’s all about balance here and understanding how your mixture will translate. A well-bodied scent combines both light and intense notes for a concentrated trail that’s impactful but not overpowering.
3. Fragranced body products are a master tool
Bathroom cabinet staples like your scented body butters, lotions, oils, and hair mists, too, can be utilized as building blocks for your perfume persona. A top tip from beauty editors all around? Anything aromatic is best-applied post-shower. When your skin is moist and warm, your pores instantly open up, allowing fragrances to seep into the skin more easily.
A few body care elixirs and concoctions we love...
For a floral and fresh base:
54 Thrones Comorian Ylang Ylang + Egyptian Orange Blossom Beauty Butter, £18.04
For a warm floral and citrusy base:
Blade And Bloom Fresh Feels Rich Body Whip, £25.63
Blade And Bloom Glow Getter Rich Body Oil, £21.97
For a floral and nutty base:
54 Thrones Minona Luxury Body Oil, £36.08
For a sweet and nutty base:
54 Thrones Makeda Body Melt, £34.58
For a creamy, earthy, and sweet base:
Soap Smith Brick Lane Hand & Body Wash, $23
For a herbaceous base:
Soap Smith Hackney Hand & Body Wash, £16.00
A few closing tips before we wrap things up:
4. Always apply fragrance to the pulse points of your body
The warmth of these areas will help accentuate and diffuse your scent. Pulse points include:
- On the neck
- On the wrists
- Inside the elbows
- Behind the knees
- Behind the ears
5. Home layering is a thing, too
It follows the exact same concept as fragrance layering to add a personalized touch to your haven. Layering can be achieved in many ways, typically through the use of candles, incense, diffusers, and mists. We also like to spritz perfume on a sheet of tissue paper, placing it in our wardrobe or drawers for sweet-smelling clothes and towels.