For the NYFW SS23 season, designers searched within themselves, drawing influences from childhood memories, family bonds, and personal experiences. From crowd drawing big-name designers to emerging names fuelled by inventive ideas, brands focussed on trendy looks that consumers would be happy to wear and be seen in. The body-positive dressing look was a prominent theme conveyed via skin-baring looks, thin gauzy fabrics, revealing cutouts and the casting of several pregnant models who were seen walking in some of the shows.
Studio 189, Sukeina, and Tia Adeola each focused on their roots by presenting empowering collections that combine feel-good dressing with meaningful storytelling.
Studio 198
Remaining true to their values, Studio 189 shows are always a cultural experience in that the clothes involve music, poetry, dance and s sense of a tight-knit community. The brand’s Spring/Summer 2023 showcase, titled Mélange, was built on celebrating the journey of loved ones, whatever that journey may be. For co-founders Abrima Erwiah and Rosario Dawson, it was honouring the life of Erwiah’s father who passed on not long ago.
Referencing the theme of family, the design duo introduced models walking in groups of two and in one instance, a pregnant woman and what appeared to be a couple with two small children. As for the clothes, contrasting prints and patterns were mashed up for a lively fashion experience.
The collection was dominated by effortless looks that don’t play into wider fashion trends. The selection included bold and brilliant patchwork tailored shirts and trousers, hand-painted and indigo-dyed separates, maxi skirts and dresses in appealing bright colours, and matching sets tailored with everyday ease. This showcase may have been a tribute but it also served as a celebration of life, craftsmanship and tradition.
Sukeina
Whether it's with the brand's signature statement details, such as striking folds and fringes, or through rich colours and craftsmanship, the Sukeina woman draws attention at first glance. Designed by Omar Salam, almost entirely from a single, vibrant red colour that is inspired by the male Cardinal bird, Sukeina’s new collection combined glam with polished essentials capturing both the strength and confidence of the modern woman.
Featuring Nigerian supermodel, Oluchi Onweagba-Orlandi, on their lookbook, the outfits range from cargo style three-quarter trousers with massive pockets, cropped tops and formal wear. This included floor length sheer trousers matched with a long coat and unexpected white hems from a hidden blouse that could be mistaken for a classic shirt piercing through the sleeves.
Crafted with the intention to spread positive energy, the collection was born from the idea of sparking a conversation between the wearer and her audience. “It is one thing to feel your angles, your beauty, your motion, your rhythm and the symphony of you while you are wearing the clothes. But there is also the vantage point of someone sharing that with you, seeing you walk into the room and the light you bring,” the designer explained. The inner strength Salam hoped to portray came through in the attitude of the clothes which were striking yet digestible, sensual, strong and refined with intricate complexities in construction.
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Tia Adeola
Tia Adeola’s goal as a designer is to rewrite history by taking elements associated with luxurious “royal dressing” and putting them on people of colour to reclaim their status and power. For SS23, this meant seeking inspiration from Grace Jones and the late designer Thierry Mugler. Following in both her idols’ footsteps, Adeola’s designs were daring and represented women comfortable in their skin and bodies. This was especially explored through translucent chiffon materials that exposed parts or in some cases the entire body.
Throughout the showcase, delicate materials like embroidered lace and tulle were the fabrics of choice. These were used on playsuits and revealing garments decorated with ruffles and feathers. There was a one-arm jumpsuit made entirely from ruffle trims, a black, lightly layered mini dress with lime sleeves, and mini skirts in different variations. Adeola also delivered a small series of casual looks for menswear featuring boxy-cut shirts that were worn unbuttoned and styled with loose-fitting trousers.
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In a season driven by buzzy show-stopper moments, it was refreshing to see these brands stick to their message and values, delivering both style and substance.