Artisanal handicrafts have long been an important segment of Burkina Faso’s economy and culture. Recognising the potential of the industry early on, the Burkinabe government launched the Ouagadougou International Art and Craft Fair or Le Salon International de L'Artisanat de Ouagadougou (SIAO) as its called in French, in the 1980s, as a platform to offer craftsmanship training and to boost economic and social development. As one of the continent's leading crafts events, the fair showcases items such as jewellery, home decor, artworks, textiles as well as bronze and iron products. 

And of course, one can't talk about Burkina Faso without mentioning its position as one of the biggest cotton producers on the continent or referencing Faso da dani, the nation’s indigenous textile woven from cotton.

Despite political and economic challenges over the last few years, with the help of the Ethical Fashion Initiative, Burkina Faso has continued to cultivate a blossoming textile sector rooted in traditional methods such as hand weaving and dyeing performed by local artisans. 

Fashion for change  

Although the local fashion industry in Burkina Faso is small, programs such as the Ethical Fashion Initiative have helped create job opportunities and promote traditional craftsmanship beyond its borders by partnering local artisans and producers with regional and international fashion brands. Among the long list of designers who have collaborated with these artisans is Côte d’Ivoire-based menswear label, Laurenceairline, the academia-driven, eponymous British brand, Wales Bonner, and the influential Japanese chain store, United Arrows.

Other labels who have also been captured by the cultural and scenic allure of Burkina Faso include Kente Gentleman, Bantu Wax, and Lukhanyo Mdingi, whose recent Spring 2023 collection and film was named BURKINA as an ode to the community and hands who produced it. “To me, Burkina has always felt like those untouched gems. A country filled with pure richness, history, colour, and culture,” Mdingi can be heard narrating in his film, “It was during a recent respite where we had the privilege to witness the extraordinary clay-like rustic landscapes, its people, its hustle, the sublime heat, and the pure spirit of those that call it home.”

BURKINA, which Mdingi debuted at Paris Fashion Week Menswear this past June, was crafted from brightly coloured, ultra-light knits and hand-dyed shirts and suits. For these brands, craftsmanship extends beyond just making clothes by encompassing storytelling, social impact, sustainability, and celebrating the unique value offered by craftspeople.

For her Spring Summer 2022 collection, Volta Jazz, Wales Bonner transported her gaze to 1970s Burkina Faso, exploring the high-spirited era through the black and white images of acclaimed photographer, Sanlé Sory, who captured the nightlife and personal style of famous musicians and youth at the time. Similarly, the designer’s latest collection also draws from Burkina Faso and features locally dyed jerseys, handwoven cotton in exquisitely fine tailoring that has defined her garments since launching in 2014. 

ASFW is Transforming the Textile and Fashion Industry

A new era   

Burkina Faso has also benefited from recent and ongoing cultural shifts. As the global fashion industry attempts to address fashion’s impact on the environment, brands are seeking new, innovative and responsible ways to produce. Furthermore, consumers are willing and more open to shaking up the stereotypes of ‘made in Africa’ partly due to social media and the new wave of global designers from the continent.

African designers themselves are also embracing their traditional heritage and applying it to their designs in a contemporary and creative way. Inspired by the idea of community, collaboration, and honouring traditions, a fearless and self-assured attitude runs through these creatives. 

Bringing Ancient Egyptian Remedies With Ancient Naturals

The future is local 

As collaborations with local and international designers continue to raise its profile and showcase its capabilities, Burkina Faso possesses an opportunity to not only expand its job market with skilled artisans and other roles but to also further develop its fashion industry.

This year, the Ouagadougou International Art and Craft Fair will be held from 28 October to 6 November.