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In the last few years, mounting pressure from consumers and activists has propelled the fashion industry to reconcile with its negative impact on the environment — making sustainability a hot topic. Though the word is usually mistaken for just recycling and upcycling of fashion items and materials, sustainability is a broad term that, according to experts, also encompasses designing garments in a socially responsible manner. This involves factory workers, the type of materials used, and where and how they are sourced, amongst other things.
For these Pan-African labels, sustainability incorporates sourcing local organic fabrics, re-using old materials, developing smaller collections, emphasising social welfare and ethical practices, as well as partnering with local artisans to revive the use of traditional textiles and techniques, such as weaving.
Below, discover five brands taking sustainability to heart.
1. Adèle Dejak
Adèle Dejek is an eponymous accessory brand operating from Kenya. Known as one of the leading jewellery brands in East Africa, it was launched in 2008 by former typographer Adèle Dejak. Inspired by African tribes, Dejak’s one-of-a-kind designs are made from recycled brass and Ankole cow horns. Her alluring and season-enduring heirlooms include oversized rings, chokers, bangles and neck pieces in daring shapes.
With strong values on environmental impact, the designer is committed to fair compensation and traceable materials. Her dedication to uplifting communities in East Africa sees her training and providing skills development programs to people while also working with UNHCR Australia to provide teaching and work opportunities to refugees.
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Faridah Statement Brass Neckpiece
2. Lemlem
International supermodel, Liya Kebede, is the driving force behind the artisanal womenswear resort label, Lemlem. Founded in 2007, the brand is a result of Kebede’s desire to create jobs, preserve traditional techniques, and rebuild the weaving industry in her native Ethiopia. In addition to following ethical practices and eco-conscious measures, the brand partners with garment factories in Kenya and Morocco, creating job opportunities beyond Ethiopia for local craftspeople.
Lemlem’s small collections are handmade from recycled and leftover fabrics and regionally sourced cotton obtained from certified suppliers. Kebede’s relaxed garments focus on comfort and functionality, with collections consisting of beach-ready summer dresses, cover-ups, tunics, and swimwear in gentle pops of ombre tones, soft blues and yellow.
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Lola Nageur One Piece
3. Lisou
Based in London, Lisou is a womenswear brand created by Tanzania-raised and London-based designer, Rene Macdonald, in 2018. Designed to exude a “happy vibes” mood, it offers distinctive bold prints and easygoing pieces that transcend seasonal trends. Their line consists of wardrobe staples ranging from sleepwear, accessories, and daywear.
Embracing an eco-friendly ethos, Lisou works with One Tree Planted, a non-profit charity that plants trees around the world. For every full-priced clothing item the brand sells, it plants five trees in different continents including Africa, North America and Asia. Additionally, the brands’ accessories are repurposed from fabric off-cuts.
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Eva Metallic Fuschia Deco Jacquard Skirt
4. Ohema Ohene
British-born Ghanaian designer, Abenaa Pokuaa, launched Ohema Ohene in 2008 — after studying Fashion Design Technology at the London College of Fashion. Characterised by vivid patterns and bright prints in tailored and flattering cuts, the designer draws inspiration from her West African roots and combines African handicraft know-how with British tailoring.
Producing garments for men, women and children, her clothes offer a youthful and contemporary mix of transgenerational casual and formal looks. As part of the brand's sustainability efforts, in 2013, Pokuaa launched a production facility in Ghana which contributes to the local economy and the country’s artisanal industry.
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Akua Maxi dress
5. Threaded Vibes
Advocating for freedom through fashion and style and creating a community for like-minded individuals, Threaded Vibes is a unisex Ghanaian label established in 2016 by Awurama Mankatah. Decorated with eye-catching graphic patterns, patches, stripes, and indigenous symbols that allude to the founder's roots, Mankatah’s clothes are infused with a cool streetwear aesthetic that contributes to the brand’s fresh appeal.
Her devotion and passion for working with continental fabrications led the designer to buy materials from neighbouring countries. For example, indigo from Côte d’Ivoire, leather from Ghana and bogolan from Mali and Burkina Faso. The ultimate goal for her is to highlight the beauty and richness of local fabrics from all corners of the continent.
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Fugu Shrug and Lace Up Skirt