The HBO show, Insecure, challenged television ethos with the characterisation of Molly Carter. She is the true definition of a fashion girl in a corporate world. The multi-award-winning series may have ended but its themes and motifs will echo years from now. Through its characters, the show exemplifies a clear distinction exists between a well-dressed woman and a woman with style through one of its main characters played by Yvonne Orji. Of the four friends in the show, Molly is sketched out as the fashion forward diva. When entering a scene, her looks command attention and we are immediately drawn to her. 

In the show’s pilot episode, we are introduced to a young and ambitious corporate lawyer working in a predominantly white environment where she has to code switch to fit in. We see this being reflected in her colour palette with hues of blue, grey, white and black. By creating this visual imagery, the character is consciously choosing to follow socially acceptable styles and to dress in a manner that will not draw too much attention to her and distract her white peers. As the seasons progress, we see a visible change in Molly’s style and similarly, her sense of self. Her transition to a Black law firm and a strengthening in financial power see her sporting high-end luxury brands such as Fendi, Off-White and Jacquemus.

Taking a deeper dive into her character, Molly's sartorial moments reflected her own inner conflict and expression of self. Her sense of style was used to represent her growth in both her personal and professional lives. We see this as she dons striking power suits that at times may be devised as a means to appeal to her male suitors.

The History of Fashion on TV and its depiction of Black Female Characters

Sex and the City revolutionised the use of fashion as a device for storytelling on television. Now TV shows function as an outlet for brand marketing and product placement. This in turn makes it easier for costume designers to incorporate luxury brands on their shows and play a larger role in the visual representation of characters' development. With the evolution of inclusivity within the fashion industry, the media industry still falls behind in this intersection. In 2017, Harper’s Bazaar’s The 52 Most Stylish Fictional Characters of All Time only featured five Black women. In a world full of trendsetters, television still fails to acknowledge the influence that Black women truly hold. 

In the past, some fashionable Black female characters displayed wild or outrageous traits, namely, Cookie Lyon on Empire and Raven Baxter on That’s So Raven. They were also either presented as side characters such as in the case of Dionne on Clueless. The portrayal, although comical and appealing to the eye, pigeonholed these women as eccentric or secondary characters. 

Looking at Annalise Keating, a criminal lawyer on How To Get Away With Murder and Jessica Pearson, a corporate lawyer on Suits, both are presented as strong powerful women, but not fashionable. That’s not to say that they do not dress well, but they are made to appear in command as they abide by a system that still oppresses Black women. Olivia Pope from Scandal is in a similar league and is perhaps one of the few to successfully marry fashion with work life.

Styling Molly Carter

It's quite evident that on a show like Insecure, the clothing and hair are far from ornamental, but are rather a push for much needed conversations on identity. The first three seasons were styled by costume designer Ayanna James Kimani. Individualistic in nature, the way she assembled looks for the characters successfully created the illusion of a real person. Molly’s personal style makes us almost believe that that is the kind of woman that could exist in our society, and thus creates a lasting image of what a successful Black woman could or should look like. 

For the last two seasons, Shiona Turni rises as the torch bearer by exploring Molly’s visual glow-up. “For Molly, colour is a crucial indicator of her ambition. She is very keen to stand out in the workplace, so I reflect that in her wardrobe by using a lot of bold colours in monochromatic looks that we may not typically see in law offices. For her off hours, I slip an intentional label in to demonstrate that she can dabble in luxury, as many Black women do” Turini says in an interview with Harper’s Bazaar.

The Significance of Molly’s Fashion

The portrayal of Molly’s character explores the world of a successful Black woman in a high-profile career. The visual imagery serves as affirmation of the heights that a Black woman can reach without compromising her self-expression, especially through her personal style. Molly’s trimmed hair for the final season is an example of a very significant moment documented on the show. It speaks not only what the character experienced but what countless Black women go through, the shedding of one’s former self and embracing a more freed version. 

With the end of another monumental show, we find ourselves still deciphering and unpacking key moments. We’re adding Molly Carter to the list of fashion icons in modern day television – she serves as the blueprint for the next generation of Black fashionistas.