South African Fashion Week held its SS’21 season from 29 April to 1 May — a three-day digital showcase with daily exclusive live screenings of the shows, in accordance with Covid-19 regulations, held at the Mall of Africa in Johannesburg, South Africa.
27 local designers showcased their latest collections. These included Mbuyiselo Malo who’s the creative vision at Clive Rundle ushering a new, pared-down aesthetic, Palesa Mokubung of Mantsho with her Empress collection, as well as Lara Klawikowski with her nature-inspired designs made from recycled plastic. This season was indeed one of new beginnings characterized by brand logomania, exaggerated proportions and fresh new talent. It’s an exciting time as the industry moves towards an accelerated path of sustainability and designers find comfort in tried and tested methods with new experimental ideas.
Driven by conscious design and individuality, three young and resourceful designers focussed their collections on the female form and gender-fluidity. Their collections were produced with clean lines, minimalist silhouettes and straightforward cuts. From a designer inspired by femininity to one fascinated with pockets, discover the new labels to know this season and the inspiring women behind them.
Fikile Sokhulu
Based in KwaZulu Natal, South Africa, Fikile Sokhulu launched her eponymous womenswear label in 2018, after acquiring a fashion diploma from the Durban Institute of Technology. In just three years, the designer and illustrator has become a two-time finalist of the SA Fashion Week New Talent Search competition, and has collaborated with South African retailer Mr Price on a limited edition collection. Sokhulu describes her designs as “poetic and gentle” themes which she explores through ruched details, frills, and the use of limited colours — all inspired by her idea of femininity. “The brand [is for] women with an evolving identity,” she explains to Amaka.
“[Color] plays a significant role in [communicating] my concepts,” she continues, speaking on her restrained use of colours.
Her most recent collection, Willow, for SS'21 is inspired by adaptability and the philosophy of Yin-Yang. It consists of tulle tunics, and laid-back red frocks with illustrations of nature and koi fish. Sokhulu says this laid back approach is built on practicality and is both “bold and serene”.
Mikhayla Farouk
Maklele is a Johannesburg-based, gender-fluid label launched by Mikhayla Farouk in 2018. A 2020 SA Fashion Week Scouting Menswear Competition semi-finalist, Farouk debuted her first collection at South African Fashion Week in October last year. The B Tech in Fashion degree graduate from the University of Johannesburg describes her aesthetic as “tailored streetwear”—a balance between formal and casual dressing.
“My main focus is sustainability, so [I produce my designs in ] small quantities, [and use] recycled fabrics, she adds.
For SS’21, Farouk sought to balance a sustainable approach with a commercial appeal. “I decided to take it back to the basics,” she says. The largely black collection features cargo style pants, sweaters with slogans, a mesh polo neck and an unmissable amount of zippers and chains that hang on pants, shirts, and bucket hats.
“This collection speaks to the sustainable aspect but [with a] fast fashion mindset,” she explains. This in the sense that it’s commercial and it’s easy to sell and produce, but that it's created under sustainable practices. Unlike a lot of designers and creatives, Farouk admits to being her own muse and proudly declares her love for pockets and their purpose in everyday dressing — as more than just a stylistic detail.
Marguerite Mc Alpine
Womenswear label Mc Alpine was established in Johannesburg by designer Marguerite Mc Alpine. The SA Fashion Week 2021 New Talent Search finalist graduated from the University of Johannesburg with a B Tech Fashion degree in 2018, the same year she launched her eponymous label. Alpine started her fashion career as an assistant to the buyer at Rage, a clothing and footwear retailer, where she worked for a year before gathering the confidence to start her label. Inspired by everyday women and their stories, the designer says her label is about giving women confidence. “I want everybody to feel included,” she says about her brand ethos.
Alpine’s designs are often crafted from recycled and repurposed fabrics, as well as deadstock from previous collections. For SS’21, she reinterpreted some of her label's most popular styles to create a collection driven by comfort and monochromatic colours. Influenced by the expression ‘waste not, want not’, the collection consists of loose-fitting dresses in black or white.
They feature patchwork detailing, multifunctional bows that can be tied or left to hang, and circular appliqué details that add a flattering effect. “I didn’t want anything body conforming,” Alpine says about her new offering.