Ahead of the release of Black Panther back in 2018, social media netizens initiated a trend called #BlackPantherSoLit, which anticipated the release of the film and what they, as fans of the movie, would wear to the cinema and movie premieres. People were excited and engaged because they felt seen and represented. Upon release, Black Panther became a leading example of how costume dressing in film and television can influence pop culture. Moviegoers, much like the stars of the film, attended screenings in Wakanda-inspired clothing that spoke to their heritage. 

Historically, Hollywood paid little attention to non-American and Eurocentric viewpoints concerning fashion in movies and TV shows, but productions like Black Panther and Insecure are challenging that reality. The rise of Black-led films and shows that explore the Black experience and Pan-Africanism are ushering in a new era for filmmakers and Black-owned fashion brands alike.

Black Is King 

Styled by Zerina Akers, Beyonce’s visual album, Black Is King, is a cinematic masterpiece celebrating Black culture through fashion, beauty, and music. “With this visual album, I wanted to present elements of Black history and African tradition, with a modern twist and a universal message, and what it truly means to find your self-identity and build a legacy,” Beyonce wrote on Instagram when the film was released two years ago. “It was originally filmed as a companion piece to ‘The Lion King: The Gift’ soundtrack and meant to celebrate the breadth and beauty of Black ancestry,” she explained.

The result was a visual treat explored through a series of bold outfits and historic hairstyles that paid homage to contemporary Africa and its diaspora. Throughout the film, Beyonce is spotted wearing a roster of African and Black designers alongside some of the world’s biggest and storied fashion houses. Names such as ready-to-wear Senegalese brand, Tongoro Studio, Kenyan-based statement jewellery label, Adele Dejak, and Ivorian womenswear label, Loza Maléombho, who designed a custom black and white graphic coat with golden buckles, are just some of the brands she worked with. 

Black Panther 

When Black Panther was released in 2018, it became the second grossing film of that year, amassing over $1.3 billion worldwide. Costume designer Ruth E. Carter, who also worked on Coming 2 America, won an Oscar for her work on the film. For the project, Carter was tasked with portraying the beauty of tribal dress in today's world of digital innovation and modern technology. Carter looked to Africa's rich, indigenous cultures for references and inspiration, sourcing clothing from Kenya to South Africa, to present a well-informed perspective of African culture and what it means to be Black today.

The elaborate nature of the film saw Carter and her team choose specific colours and clothing styles to distinguish the featured tribes. For example, intricate beading and the vibrant shades worn by the Maasai people inspired the red and gold geometric uniforms of the fictional Dora Milaje warriors led by Okoye (Danai Gurira). The indigo tones of loose-fitting garments of the merchant tribe drew from the Tuareg people of the Sahara while the mining tribe was influenced by the Himba people of Namibia, who are known for applying red ochre on their skin and hair. In addition to receiving inspiration from traditional customs, Carter also worked with contemporary African brands such as British-Ghanaian designer Ozwald Boateng, whose sharp tailoring and decades of experience have earned him influence beyond the Black community.

Furthermore, Carter reimagined native garments and techniques into futuristic products that combine tradition with technology. Seemingly regular Basotho blankets turned into shields during a battle scene and Queen Ramonda’s (played by Angela Bassett) Isicholo Zulu hat was a result of 3D printing. 

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Coming 2 America 

In Coming 2 America, the sequel to Eddie Murphy’s 1988 romantic comedy, costume designer Ruth E. Carter's focus was on bringing elegance and modern sensibility to dress styles inspired by Africa. Using Ankara textiles, a fabric decorated with vibrant prints and used for traditional clothes in West Africa, her task was to present African fashion in an authentic and modern way that challenges stereotypes about the continent and its culture. The movie featured daring prints and silhouettes that pushed the limits of what was possible in terms of design and layering. Mirembe’s wedding dress in the film, played by South African actress, Nomzamo Mbatha, was created by Claude Kameni, an LA-based designer with Cameroonian roots.

 Weighing almost 40 kilograms, the dress was a show-stopping gown made of wax print fabric with an elongated train of layers of ruffles. Carter also worked with the South African knitwear label, MaXhosa, which is acclaimed for its distinct patterns and symbols that celebrate Xhosa culture. The brand’s extensive contribution to the film spans across hats, vests, and golfers, overlays, and can be seen on Mbatha, Eddie Murphy and other cast members. Another designer that Carter collaborated with was Ghanaian Mimi Plange, whose hand painted orange leather skate dress was worn by KiKi Layne’s character, Meeka.

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Insecure 

Throughout its five seasons, Insecure was praised for its genuine and multi-faceted portrayal of its Black characters. Telling complex stories through digestible and relatable plotlines, Issa Rae, who created the show, and her team also placed a particular focus on supporting and working with emerging Black-owned fashion brands. During the course of the show, viewers witness Issa’s style, a mix of feminine and offbeat attitude with a youthful edge, transform from casual to a more sophisticated outlook of elegant asymmetric dresses and cut-out details.

Some of the most repeated African labels on the show included Maki Oh, the Nigerian label specialising in Yoruba-dyed pieces. Blazers also turned out to be one of Issa’s go-to wardrobe staples as she found comfort in South African designer Thebe Magugu's styles. Magugu is known for his politically charged collections that celebrate womanhood. Lisa Folawiyo, the fashion-forward Nigerian womenswear label notable for applying handmade, exquisite embellishments on traditional wax print textiles was another prominent designer whose clothes were featured on numerous episodes.