African Fashion is informed by an amalgam of customs, values, and commerce of the day. To really understand the recurring motifs and traditions attached, it is important to move beyond the idea of a singular designer or fashion house to understand the role of fashion in various African societies. In studying this fashion history, I relied heavily upon anthropological texts, archival photos, and even postcolonial photographs and films to inform my understanding. The Postcolonial era ushered in a new attitude for newly freed African states, and in that freedom came the birth of new art. This period was critical in empowering African people and the diaspora to memorialize the history and narratives that matter to them.

            In this sense, film serves as an act of commemoration in which several filmmakers use film to preserve tradition, historical moments, and exchange ideas. Today, we are experiencing another cultural renaissance in which various filmmakers, writers, and producers from the African diaspora are continuing to choose which experiences and stories matter most to them. Whether it be the Afro-futuristic world of Wakanda or the streets of Inglewood, members of the African diaspora can experience a global connectedness through storytelling and the centering of predominantly Black protagonists.  The Woman King continues this tradition by highlighting the story of the Agojie women, the all-female military unit of the Dahomey empire. Below are three key motifs and traditions that informed the creation of the ornate military uniforms in The Woman King-   Indigo Dye in African Textile Creation

      One of the earliest depictions of the Agojie women is from a British missionary, Frederick E. Forbes. The image shows a female soldier, documented as an Ahosi and a high-ranking official, in a bright blue tunic and shorts with a rifle in hand. Gersha Phillips, The Woman King’s costume designer, incorporates this style in the training costumes of the higher-ranking Ajojie women in the film. Philips notes in an article from motion pictures that they employed the strip weave technique to create the tunics. The tunics were created by artisans in both South Africa and Ghana who utilized ten-centimeter strips and a layering technique to create the training uniforms. While Philips did not cite specific reasons for using the indigo color, the color choice aligns with traditional indigo dying practices in Mali and Nigeria. This lecture by Aboubakar Fofana, a multidisciplinary artist and indigo dye practitioner, notes the medicinal, spiritual, and cultural associations attached to indigo. Fofana notes that his first encounter with indigo was through his aunt who was a herbalist. Indigo was often used for therapeutic support and bandages. While there is practical usage, Fofana goes on to note that indigo often signifies protection in funerary traditions. Loved ones are often wrapped in indigo cloth which safely accompanies them on their journey to the other world. On the other hand, indigo has celestial and regal qualities often used for adornment as well. In The Woman King indigo was incorporated to create the wrap skirt and the tunics. The spiritual and practical usage of indigo is befitting as the Agojie women startled both life and death as they headed into battle. 

 Cowrie Shells Purpose in Trading and Fashion

          In addition to the textiles and prints featured in the film, Phillips employed the cowrie shell to adorn the various soldier’s uniforms. Much like indigo dye’s spiritual and practical use, cowrie shells were also used as protection charms. An article by the National Museum of African American History and Culture, notes that some individuals used them to resist enslavement. More generally, cowrie shells were widely used in trade for goods and services throughout Africa, Asia, and Europe as early as the 14th century on Africa’s coast. Cowrie shells were also integral in trading power and the party that amassed more the easier it was to attain goods. Europeans used cowries to purchase people. Dahomey and its primary port, Ouidah, amassed trading power in its heyday. The strategic usage of cowrie shells solidifies the strength of the Dahomey kingdom and the Agojie women.

  Symbols and Prints' Role in Hierarchy       

         Phillips employed a Gambian drum print on the outfits seen in the filming. While the exact meaning and association of the drum print are not well documented, African fabrics and wax prints are often adorned with common symbols and wildlife to suit populations' tastes and preferences. Symbols are also integral in differentiating the varying rank of soldiers. Philips remarks in the same article, “We made these two really cool tablets and put all the different symbols on them with meanings for each thing. Then each actress, when they came in, they were allowed to pick symbols for their belt and their different things,” Phillips recalled. “It was a really cool thing. It was interesting to watch what everybody picked. Also, for their necklaces, we put little charms on their necklaces. We just did different ways of trying to give everybody a little individual feel and also to create those ranks. Obviously, Nanisca has the highest rank, and then Izogie (Lashana Lynch) was second.”

        In Forbes's illustration, there is a crocodile symbol printed on the female soldier’s cap. While there are no sources that explain this emblem, it is reminiscent of the “Denkyem” Adinkra symbol. The Denkyem symbol is a crocodile that lives in the water, yet breathes the air, demonstrating adaptability. Phillips's stylistic choices were highly informed by movement and while there is no clear reference to the crocodile symbol on the cap in Forbes's depiction, the importance and evidence of symbols cannot be understated in African fashion. It would have been a symbol applicable as these women were fierce, adept, and skillful in their fighting practices. Symbols play a significant role in distinguishing class, hierarchy, and tribe.

       The Woman King is important as it celebrates the people, processes, and values behind the costume design. Philips's use of textiles and symbols allowed the audience to witness the strength and tradition that these women carry. Moreover, the audience can observe the continuity of these fashion practices and traditions in today’s fashion and pop culture. In understanding the trends of the past, we are better able to incorporate them into how we live and dress.