Before the world was brought to a standstill by the global Covid-19 pandemic, digital fashion was already making waves in Africa and the world. However, we didn’t realise how soon the transformation would take full effect. And even though it was unexpected and at times challenging, it has been a gratifying breath of fresh air for the African fashion industry.
The industry has successfully adapted to the new normal — digitalising everything from fashion shows to becoming more digitally present through online shops and e-commerce, and even operating fashion businesses at large. Remote work has pivoted the African fashion landscape, setting it up to be the leader of the pack. Fashion designers throughout Africa — like true innovators — developed some of the most talked-about digital fashion shows amid the pandemic, overcoming hurdles caused by cancellations and uncertainty.
From Hanifa's 3D fashion show to David Tlale's Classica Icons, these momentous events have placed African designers and fabrics on a global stage and paved the way for digital fashion in Africa.
Read on for some of the best virtual fashion moments...
Hanifa’s 3D virtual fashion show
Created by New York-based Congolese designer, Anifa Mvuemba, the world was stunned by this groundbreaking unconventionality. Dubbed innovative and game-changing by viewers, the virtual event in May, 2020 was streamed on Instagram live using 3D models to catwalk her Pink Label Congo collection. Despite five years of planning and seven months of execution, there were some technical difficulties that threatened to disrupt the virtual event in the first hour. Acting swiftly and decisively, Mvuemba was able to pull the show off successfully.
Some of her designs included a backless dress in the colours of the Congolese flag. “The red represents the pain and the blood and suffering of the country. The blue represents peace, and then the yellow star represents the hope of the country,” she explains in an interview to ELLE. Each 3D model was created by a team of animators to emphasise the shape and cut of each garment.
Mvuemba’s innovative move is a powerful motivation for African designers and what they can achieve beyond limitations. Following Hanifa’s successful show, many designers took to social media platforms to showcase their new fashion collections. This included Ghanaian brand, Christie Brown, whose show attracted over 29,000 viewers on YouTube.
Classica Icons by David Tlale
David Tlale is undoubtedly one of South Africa’s most talented and compelling designers. Tlale’s Classica Icon collection, which was presented by Boschendal in partnership with Avon, was an unforgettable event in African fashion history in April, 2020. The pre-recorded show was a call to action to support local designers and create sustainable fashion in South Africa. The designer told BellaNaija Style that the collection "prompted new ways of presenting craftsmanship and creativity of David Tlale's signature trailblazing approach to fashion to inspire Africa and global trends in this coming season."
Having mastered womenswear for many years, this time Tlale paid particular attention to menswear, producing luxurious tailored garments.
In line with Covid-19 restrictions, the show didn’t leave out face masks. This gave the designer an opportunity to play around with creativity. During the show, one notable face mask included ostrich feathers that the South African designer said was for the "drama".
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Accra Fashion Week
Accra Fashion Week in December, 2020 made another mark in history with an epic virtual fashion show that featured fashion buyers from Israel and Switzerland. Aired on YouTube, the three-day virtual event took place at the Independent Square and Kwame Nkrumah National Park in Ghana. It included a seminar hosted by Accra Fashion Week CEO Nana Tamakloe.
The "Virtual Insanity” edition highlighted African inspired designs by Mikoko Deluxe, Milandsther, Fundivas Exclusive, Signature Fashion House, and more designers from Nigeria, Australia and Germany. Thanks to technology and inventive minds, Ghana's biggest fashion event was a success.
MaXhosa by Laduma at New York Fashion Week
The show was titled Ingumangaliso Imisebenzi Kathixo meaning ‘God’s work is miraculous’ in isiXhosa, one of the native languages in South Africa. True to Maxhosa Africa style, the spring/summer 2021 collection displayed colour, luxury, hope, style and above all, heritage at New York Fashion Week in September, 2020.
“The collection is the most colourful and exotic collection I've designed to date. My objective was to bring about a new dawn and excitement about the upcoming local summer season [in South Africa]. Considering that, despite the global pandemic we have to endure, we have to be hopeful about reaching the light at the tunnel because we have realised that happiness is a new luxury," shared Laduma Ngxokolo, founder of Maxhosa Africa, to Industrie Africa.
The collection, which was named after his grandfather's famous soundtrack, has made knitwear fashionable. The designs are rich in varied knitting patterns and colour, instilling a sense of joy to its wearers.
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Africa has been on the digital path before the pandemic
Digital fashion in Africa started years ago when Joyce Chimanye’s Zuvva ventured into retail and e-commerce in 2014. Online showrooms and e-commerce setups have since emerged, showcasing African designs to the global market. Companies like Industrie Africa, Kisua, Afrikrea and The Folklore have provided platforms that support designers from different parts of the continent. While the coronavirus pandemic has fuelled rapid change in many industries, it has encouraged fashion designers to think on their feet and come up with solutions to long-standing fashion problems.
The annual South Africa FashionTech Africa conference is part of the fashion industry's long-time technology driving solutions programs. Some of the participants during the 2018 event introduced various artificial intelligence and data analytic innovations.
In June 2020, over 100 African creatives and digital innovators from all over the continent joined a webinar launched by Fashionomics Africa. Attendees were trained on how to use digital tools to leverage the fashion industry. Fashionomics is an initiative by the African Development Bank Group to create jobs and help grow the local fashion industry.
Online sales for many fashion e-commerce platforms saw a growth in orders. Ivorian online fashion label, Afrikrea, revealed through DW News Agency in June 2020 that the company's orders have increased by 53% since February 2020.
The future of digital fashion in Africa
It is undisputed that digital fashion is the future across the globe. Witnessing the tremendous achievements and giant leaps that African designers have taken since the Covd-19 outbreak is testament to that.
Digitalisating fashion in Africa has enormous potential, however, access to finance for development can be a major hindrance. Despite some countries having robust telecommunication systems, some still suffer from poor systems and internet speed which may be among the impediments.