Fashion Week teams in Africa have just wrapped up their 2021 events. From the global COVID-19 induced break to the youth-led protest against police brutality, ENDSARS, the Nigerian fashion industry had to take a hiatus on both digital and live production of shows. After what seemed like an eternity, the Lagos Fashion Week team, under the excellent leadership of Omoyemi Akerele, finally opened its doors. Meanwhile in South Africa, Johannesburg, AFI Fashion Week was giving a multi-experience of runway shows, talks, master classes, as well as musical performances by the likes of South African entertainers DJ Zinhle and DJ Thuli Phongolo. Held in Sandton, Johannesburg, the theme for the three day event was Be You, Be Truly African.

Lagos, Nigeria

Federal Palace Hotel, located in Victoria Island, Lagos, was bustling with fashion creatives who have missed the show and the community that comes with working in the industry. Photographers were on their toes, and fashionistas brought their A-games. The events took a slightly different turn this year. Normally, there would be a list of designers who are showcasing their collections at a hall. After a designer showcases, the next would come in, and so forth, until the list is exhausted. This year however, a select number of designers were given the opportunity to host private shows, with each having sponsors and marketers. These designers included Lisa Folawiyo, Thompson Adeju of Lagos Space Program, Banke Kuku, Adebayo Oke-Lawal of Orange Culture Nigeria, Bubu Ogisi of Iamisigo, Andrea Iyamah, and Sisiano. Others were to showcase their designs in the fashion tent.

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Lagos Fashion Week Day 1

Niuku, an ethical eponymous fashion brand founded by Niuku Djawal, opened the show. She showcased over seven designs, with each piece not very separate from the other. The collection was simple, yet strong and cohesive. Djawal worked with minimal prints to produce looks that were both minimalistic yet chic. Elie Kuame, the creative director of the eponymous label, Mason Elie Kuame, brought designs that were a fusion of Afrocentric fashion. Significant to his Ivorian roots, the brand also infused other fabrics like linen and silk. Thereafter was Iona McCreath for Kiko Romeo, a Nairobi based brand. The collection exuded vibrant colours, while prints gave a sense of what the spring and summer seasons really feels like.

Adara Designs, under the Adara Foundation, collaborated with design labels like Naij Way, The Lady Maker, and Bunmi with an eccentric, chic and colourful collection. Gozel Green, one of Nigeria’s best design labels, kept up their regular ethos of structures and powerful cold cuts. It rained pastels and polka dots with their latest collection. Then came in Austrian Lace, a young and ethical fashion company. They used fabrics like linen, nets, organza, and lace to create looks with meaningful designs and details. Opening with his signature saxophone number, androgynous label, Maxivive by Papa Oyeyemi paid homage to one of Nigeria’s darkest times, ENDSARS. It had models strutting in a stained Nigerian flag, whose print was from the scanned original flag from the Lekki tollgate shooting. His collection was titled 2 Bailey Street, and it was created for those looking for a community filled with safe spaces.

Eki Silk brought life to the runway, as models strutted in a bubbly nature. The garments were a mixture of breezy gowns, pants, and jumpsuits made from silk. Bridget Awosika showcased a lush, luxurious, rich, easy breezy, and mostly elegant collection. Fabrics, which were mostly silk, satin and crepe, had predominantly black and blue colours. Studio 189 closed day one, and as always, left everyone in high spirits. The designs were prints upon prints, a typical Studio 189 aesthetic.

Lagos Fashion Week Day 2

Gugu by Gugu opened day two of the show. The models came in with a sporty vibe, and wore clothes that varied, from knitted sweaters to pants, and sneakers. Ntando XV, a South African designer, came in with sheer fabrics, and variations of pants — wide legged, straight, and even culottes. TwentySix.Co came in with boxy power suits and very functional dresses, followed by Cynthia Abila, with structured silhouettes and engrained details on unexpected corners. Fabrics were mainly Aso-Oke and Satin, all styled to perfection.

NKWO, one of Nigeria’s well known sustainable designers, opened her show with a well woven frill dress. Ethical fashion oozed from this collection with a lot of fabric manipulation. The brand used Aso-Oke matched with recycled denim and organza to retain the message of sustainable fashion. Odio Mimonet played with printed silk fabrics. The dresses were well detailed with fringes, fashionable stones ,and appliqués. Ejiro Amos Tafiri, popularly called E.A.T, closed the show with looks predominantly made from Aso-Oke. The lovable typical E.A.T look was filled with statement bodices and deconstructed elaborate sleeves.

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Johannesburg, South Africa

Last year saw a major shift in the fashion industry, whereby designers turned to lounging and highly laidback offerings. This season the mood leaned towards clothing suggestive of a big return to physical outings. There were maxi dresses fit for a wedding ceremony, cocktail frocks suited for a night out and even two-piece sets that could be utilised in a professional office setting. Lesedi Baakwalanya, founder of Seditsi, celebrated dressing beyond the pandemic with a restrained collection that still delivered on elegance. Black dresses which came in glistening material ranged from above-the-knee to floor-length, while men’s jackets of the same luminescent material were also on offer. In between these subtle glam moments were more casual offerings like a shimmering embellished vest worn with printed shorts.

K Moraba and Collective showcased a high energy collection of dressy looks. There were cocktail dresses in Ankara print, full length gowns and a festive piece presented through a sequined jumpsuit. At Lufi D, it was a celebration of Black women with surprise runway appearances from the likes of legendary musician and activist Yvonne Chaka Chaka and media personality Penny Lebyane.

David Tlale picked up from where he left off his previously displayed SS22 collection, in which he collaborated with artist Mandlenkosi Mavengere. Tlale has focussed on growing his local consumer base with four flagship stores across the country. This also meant reviewing the price of his garments to suit this local demographic.

At Urban Zulu, clashing prints and logomania took centre stage. The brand's monogram appeared boldly throughout its collection of shirts, pants and everywhere else you can imagine. There was a sense of experimentation and blurring of gender lines with unexpectedly elongated men's shirts and a pair of pants with a billowing panel attached to it. By the looks of it, a lot of the outfits on display could be dressed down to create a new look by simply stripping off a layer. There's only so much that designers working with Ankara can do before it starts feeling repetitive and looking identical but this collection was charming, functional and stood out for all the right reasons.

The emerging designers of the season and this year's AFI Fast Track finalists, Cheron Dreyer, Shamyra Moodley, Siyabonga Mtshali, and Keneoue Mhletswa, are ones to watch. Their collections combined a variety of elements including craftsmanship and practicality. At Cheron Dreyer the vibe was casual with a reversible puffer jacket and cargo pants, Shamyra Moodley was driven by her love for the environment with statement flower-shaped earrings and slogans like “eco not ego”. The mood was slightly different at Siyabonga Mtshali who’s fast-paced show provided a glimpse into his queer and punk-inspired world. He added some drama through a revealing asymmetrical dress with oversized sleeves and a train. Keneuo Mhletswa kept it classic with exclusively black and white looks that included a see-through sparkly shirtdress and cuffed wrap suit.

Fashion Week teams in Africa have just wrapped up their 2021 events. From the global COVID-19 induced break to the youth-led protest against police brutality, ENDSARS, the Nigerian fashion industry had to take a hiatus on both digital and live production of shows. After what seemed like an eternity, the Lagos Fashion Week team, under the excellent leadership of Omoyemi Akerele, finally opened its doors. Meanwhile in South Africa, Johannesburg, AFI Fashion Week was giving a multi-experience of runway shows, talks, master classes, as well as musical performances by the likes of South African entertainers DJ Zinhle and DJ Thuli Phongolo. Held in Sandton, Johannesburg, the theme for the three day event was Be You, Be Truly African.