Fidela Martinez foray into fashion design, as a Haitian-Mexican designer, was not sparked by a single defining moment but rather emerged through her evolving perspective on styling. Her passion for fashion extended beyond surface-level aesthetics. “Fashion is a reflection of identity and ideology,” she explains. “This makes it a particularly compelling aspect of visual culture for me. I'm always looking at what images are telling us without words.” As her understanding deepened, so too did her personal style, evolving in tandem with her exploration of these profound themes.
It was a cool afternoon in late April, the sun beginning its descent, casting a golden hue over Coney Island. Fidela and I sat on the sand, accompanied by her videographer, while her sister and model, Mari changed into Fidela's latest creations. The gentle crash of waves and the flight of seagulls painted a serene backdrop for our shoot.
Reflecting on her formative years, Fidela reveals that her shyness profoundly influenced her design perspective. Growing up introverted, she developed a keen ability to observe and interpret. "Being shy made me more reflective," she notes. "I want my designs to speak for themselves and evoke emotion in the viewer."
Her design aesthetic, she admits, is ever-changing, yet consistently revolves around storytelling. “I envision a story in my mind and create from that vision,” she says. This commitment to narrative, combined with her focus on emotion and imagination, distinguishes her work from others.
Her most recent collection, titled "Unified Forms," reflects a bold commentary on economic class and workwear. Inspired by the uniforms of labor workers, Fidela sought to challenge conventional notions of work attire and its associations. “I wanted to disrupt the idea of what workwear is and who it’s for,” she explains.
When it comes to inspiration, Fidela draws from whatever captivates her most deeply at the moment—be it music, art, emotions, or abstract ideas. Her creative process is guided by passion rather than a fixed source of influence. “I have synthesis that numbers, words, years, and letters are all associated with colors. Since colors have strong representation and meaning they integrate into how I choose the colors for collections. “Colors often choose themselves in my process,” she reveals, hinting at a nearly instinctual approach to her palette.
In terms of materials and techniques, Fidela has a particular affinity for collage. “I love working with collage. Collage allows me to physically compile elements in a way that is constructive and expressive,” she says.
Navigating the fashion world as an emerging designer presents its challenges, particularly with technical skills. Fidela acknowledges the tension between traditional techniques and artistic innovation. “Fashion often has a protective mechanism around traditional sewing or pattern-making,” she notes. “Perfectionism can stifle true artistic expression.”
“Working in fashion and studying fashion has greatly influenced me as a designer,” she shares. “I want to return to designing with a sense of creative naivety.”
For aspiring designers, Fidela offers this advice: “For up-and-coming designers, to look away from fashion. There's so much in the world to find inspiration and beauty. I hope to create in a more organic and liberating way. You can only do this by truly discovering yourself as an artist and designer. Don't try to do things the right way; make what you feel invested in it, and it will inherently be the right way.
As the sun dipped below the horizon and the tide inched closer to my gear, the day's shoot concluded with damp shoes and an enduring spirit. The interplay of Fidela’s innovative designs against the backdrop of nature created a moment of perfect harmony, capturing the essence of her creative vision.
