Aoussou carnival is a Tunisian cultural event, taking place annually in Sousse on the 24th of July, which corresponds to the eve of Aoussou (a Berber term referring to the heatwave of August), according to the Berber calendar. This festivity finds its origin in an ancient Roman feast, the Neptunalia. The latter, which announces the hottest summer period, is celebrated to honour Neptune the sea god, during July 23rd and 24th. The word “Aoussou” is a deformation of the word ocean. During this period of high heat, Neptunalia played a role in preventing the harmful effects of the heatwave. The Aoussou period was dedicated to preventive care, and rituals linked to the sea benefits. The Aoussou rites are intended to ward off evil and disease. They consist of bathing during these hot days. In this sense, Romans used to purify themselves by performing ablution with seawater and washing their body, as a protection from any illness related to the cold of winter and the changes of weather between the seasons. Over time, the Roman celebration lost its original meaning, but it got transmitted through generations. Nowadays, this festivity is stripped of all religious meaning and is rather an occasion to bring together people to share moments of joy.

Although the carnival takes place in this coastal region, it has always had a national scope. To know more about this festivity, AMAKA spoke to Omar Chabchoub, a Merchant Navy Navigating officer and frequent carnival-goer, born and raised in Sousse.

Chabchoub explains how although the carnival was a citizens’ initiative in the first place, the first two presidents of Tunisia who attended it regularly and stole the show from the locals, gave the event its importance: “Ever since Abdelfatih Bouraoui, a prominent Tunisian journalist, started the carnival in 1958, the first two Tunisian presidents Bourguiba (the first president of Tunisia) and his successor Ben Ali, attended it regularly. The media coverage accompanying the president's presence made this event a prominent one.”

The two dictators who are natives of the Sahel region, instrumentalized the carnival for their political agenda.Through this cultural event celebrating ancient traditions, these politicians always managed to reinforce their cult of personality. “It was like the preliminary celebration of Bourguiba’s birthday (on August 3rd); there were large public celebrations with the president marching in the streets saluting the crowds,”says the Merchant Navy Navigating officer.” The carnival has also a political symbolism, since it takes place during the eve of the Republic day.” 

Like any dictator, Bourguiba’s birthday has always been celebrated with great pomp and decorations everywhere; and the politician used every public occasion to boost his visibility. So the carnival was the occasion for the political popular leader to gain more and more popularity. Besides, under Ben Ali’s presidency in 2004, an article published on a censored Tunisian website criticized the use of this event as a propaganda tool, by putting a balloon with the words “ I love you, Zine ( the first name of Ben Ali)”. Big pictures of the president were also displayed during the parades of the carnival.

Although the first two presidents politicised this event, the locals made the carnival’s main mission showing off the economic and agricultural boom, especially that Sousse and other villages surrounding it in the coastal area are known for the prosperous culture of olive grove, vegetables, and the fishing sector. “Industrial and agricultural companies participate in the parades, showcasing their different products, trying to convince people to come and buy from them,” says Chabchoub.

Besides, according to the young Soussian man, this festivity is an opportunity for hotel owners to have free advertisement, and support the tourism sector, which is the main source of the national revenue. “ It’s the best time of the year to attract more customers, especially during the summer period where Sousse is crowded with both local and foreign tourists,” he says. According to Chabchoub, some foreign Western channels came to cover the carnival, as part of their mission in boosting Tunisia’s tourism and encouraging tourists to visit the country.

The carnival takes the form of a parade made up of symbolic floats, brass bands, military, and folk troops from Tunisia and elsewhere, which takes place near the beach of Boujaafar, “Folkloric bands from different countries came to share our joy with us,” says Chabchoub.In 2015, troops from China, Russia, Algeria, and Libya participated in this event.”

“There are also cultural competitions ( drama, music, dancing, etc…) that involve children and young people, to enhance innovation and creativity in youth,” says Chabchoub. “At night, fireworks are displayed near the ‘Bou Jaafar’ beach.” In group or solo, children and teenagers demonstrate their artistic talents by giving a show in various fields, like breakdance, group dance with all the members wearing identical colorful costumes, singing, etc. According to Chabchoub, during the day of the carnival, the food served is mostly based on fish like “Couscous” with fish, “Ojja”, and tuna sandwiches. Besides, children get special treatment for this event. “ Adults spoil kids by offering them free sweets and traditional pastries like “bambalonis” ( doughnuts), lemonades with a piece of cake, brioches, lemon, and strawberry sorbets,” says Chabchoub.”Children go to the circus and attractions at night, and are allowed to stay up all night swimming in the sea, under the watch of the adults who gather in Bou Jaafar beach to talk.”

The Aoussou carnival has kept some of the spirits of Neptunalia ; Romans believed in pronouncing a magic formula before indulging in a beneficial bath and enjoying its healing. power. Chabchoub says that during the festivity, children would sing these magical verses while swimming. “Children would swim as much as possible in the sea to ask for good health from the Sea god, by singing“ Ya Sidi Aoussou, nahili edde elli nhessou” (My Master Aoussou, take off the sickness I feel),” says the Tunisian man.

After the Tunisian revolution in 2011, the carnival was interrupted till 2014, when the ministry of culture announced its comeback. However, for financial reasons, it got cancelled again. From 2015 till 2018, the event was held again. For many people from the coastal region like Chabchoub, the interruption of the festivity was painful. “For us, it was like losing a person dear to our hearts. This carnival is part of our traditions and identity, as people from the coastal region,” says Chabchoub. However, the Tunisian man understands that the country’s political and economic situation is also the reason behind this decision. “Since the 2011 revolution, things have changed with the emergence of terrorism and the economic crisis,” says Chabchoub.” So, I can’t really blame the authorities for canceling the event.”

SOUSSE NEVER DIE is the message that many locals have posted on social media every time the city of Sousse has gone through a disaster or a major problem ( like the terrorist attack) in 2015. As a tourist destination, Sousse’s locals want to continue celebrating the carnival, so their city remains “ The coastal area’s pearl” (Sousse’s nickname). The Merchant Navy Navigating officer remains optimistic about the future of the Aoussou carnival.

“We can’t give up on our traditions. The carnival will come back with a bang, soon,” says Chabchoub.