By Joshua Mphanda

African fashion has undergone a remarkable transformation, evolving from traditional clothing that held deep cultural meaning to becoming a powerful global force. Historically, garments were crafted from materials like beads, woven textiles, and animal hides, each carrying significant meaning related to identity, status, and community. Designers like Ozwald Boateng, who redefined British tailoring with African influences, and Lisa Folawiyo, whose modern interpretations of Ankara fabric have brought Nigerian fashion to the international stage, have played a key role in this evolution. South African designer Thula Sindi blends modern trends with African heritage, while other influential figures like Adebayo Oke-Lawal (Nigeria), the founder of the fashion brand Orange Culture, and South Africa's Maxhosa, known for his use of traditional beadwork and patterns, have further propelled African fashion internationally (Digba, 2024). Today, major fashion weeks in New York, London, Paris, Lagos, and GTCO Fashion Weekend highlight the growing global recognition of African designers. These events not only celebrate Africa's creativity but also its economic potential, sustainability practices, and cultural representation.

Sustainability is becoming a significant focus in the global fashion industry, with African designers playing a key role in driving this movement. Across the continent, designers are embracing eco-friendly practices by using locally sourced materials, traditional techniques, and environmentally conscious processes. In Ghana, for example, designer Selina Beb produces handwoven textiles from natural fibers, while in Kenya, Kona creates sustainable collections using organic cotton (GL, 2022). Events like Lagos Fashion Week have become important platforms for promoting these sustainable practices, with their Fashion Focus initiative showcasing collections prioritizing eco-friendly materials and techniques. Similarly, GTCO Fashion Weekend in Lagos provides a space for designers and industry leaders to discuss the future of sustainable fashion in Africa and how the continent can contribute to the global conversation (Nelson, 2024). African designers are demonstrating that sustainability can be both innovative and deeply rooted in cultural heritage, positioning them as key players in the global push for environmentally responsible fashion.

Africa’s involvement in sustainable fashion is growing more visible on the global stage, with major international events like Paris Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week featuring African designers who prioritize sustainability in their collections. Telfar Clemens, a Liberian-American designer, has earned global recognition for his eco-conscious designs, further highlighting Africa’s increasing influence in the sustainable fashion space (Yates, 2021). African fashion events, including Lagos Fashion Week and Arise Fashion Week in Nigeria, continue to attract international buyers, investors, and media attention, solidifying the continent’s role in shaping the future of sustainable fashion. Programs like Fashionomics Africa, which supports the integration of sustainable practices across the fashion value chain, and collaborations between African designers and global brands are fostering innovation, positioning Africa as a leader in sustainable fashion. As a result, Africa is not only promoting eco-friendly practices but also demonstrating how fashion can be a force for positive environmental change on a global scale.

Representation in fashion has become a crucial element in today’s global fashion landscape, with African designers playing a significant role in showcasing the continent's rich cultural heritage, diverse beauty standards, and unique narratives. African designers are increasingly challenging global fashion norms by incorporating their traditions, symbols, and stories into contemporary collections. This inclusion not only showcases African aesthetics but also gives voice to underrepresented communities, reshaping how beauty and fashion are perceived worldwide. Designers like Olivier Rousteing of Balmain, whose mother is from the Ivory Coast, incorporate African influences in their collections, while others, like Stella Jean, bring Caribbean and African heritage to the forefront of European fashion. African fashion is celebrated for its bold use of colors, textiles, and patterns that reflect the continent's diversity and vibrancy (Benissan, 2024).

Events like New York Fashion Week, Paris Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, and Lagos Fashion Week have become key platforms for African designers to showcase their work and challenge mainstream fashion narratives. Maxhosa by Laduma, a South African brand, uses traditional Xhosa beadwork and patterns in modern designs and has been featured at London Fashion Week, captivating global audiences with its intricate craftsmanship and cultural storytelling (Medium, 2024). Tanzanian supermodel and designer Flaviana Matata showcased her own line during New York Fashion Week, highlighting African craftsmanship and promoting ethical fashion. At Lagos Fashion Week, designers like Maki Oh from Nigeria use their collections to address socio-political issues such as gender equality and the representation of African women. These designers are not just creating fashion; they are using it as a platform for activism and promoting African voices in global fashion conversations. Through these events, African fashion serves as a powerful tool for storytelling, activism, and the celebration of African identity, showing that fashion can be a medium for change and inclusion in the global cultural dialogue.

The African fashion industry has seen significant growth in recent years, becoming a major contributor to the continent’s economic development. The African Development Bank estimates the fashion industry’s value at approximately $31 billion, with continued expansion expected (Allen, 2024). The sector provides job opportunities in various fields, including textile manufacturing, garment production, retail, and design. For example, Made in Africa brands like Jumia Fashion in Nigeria and Mango Tree in Kenya are growing rapidly, offering platforms for local designers and artisans. Designers across the continent are embracing modern designs that blend African cultural elements with global trends, creating jobs in both rural and urban communities. Events like Paris Fashion Week and London Fashion Week provide African designers with a global stage to network with international buyers, investors, and media. Lagos Fashion Week, which takes place annually in Nigeria, stands out as a key event where African designers showcase their creativity and innovation. For instance, Nigerian designer Lisa Folawiyo, known for her distinctive use of Ankara prints, has gained international recognition by showcasing her collections at these prestigious events. Furthermore, GTCO Fashion Weekend in Lagos provides African designers with opportunities to collaborate with key stakeholders from around the world, fostering essential business relationships that can drive future growth.

African designers are not only gaining international recognition but also challenging global fashion norms, making bold statements in the fashion world. Designers like Adebayo Oke-Lawal, the founder of Orange Culture, use fashion as a platform to explore gender fluidity, challenging traditional notions of masculinity and femininity. His collections, showcased at New York Fashion Week, bring African street style to the global stage. Similarly, Nigerian designer Maki Oh has gained international acclaim for her sophisticated approach to African textiles, incorporating indigenous techniques and materials into modern, high-fashion silhouettes. Her pieces, featured at Paris Fashion Week, address social issues like women’s rights and empowerment through storytelling in her designs.

Events like Lagos Fashion Week have played a central role in elevating African fashion, offering designers a platform to showcase their talents and gain recognition from the global fashion community. Lagos Fashion Week has attracted major international buyers and media outlets, highlighting the growing influence of African designers. For example, Andrea Iyamah, a Nigerian fashion brand that blends African prints with contemporary styles, has used Lagos Fashion Week to expand internationally. Moreover, GTCO Fashion Weekend in Lagos promotes collaboration between designers, investors, and buyers from around the world, driving the growth of Africa’s fashion industry.

All in all, African fashion is more than just a creative expression; it is a powerful movement that merges tradition with innovation, sustainability with style, and cultural heritage with modern trends. As African designers continue to make their mark on the global stage, they are reshaping the fashion industry by challenging norms, promoting sustainability, and creating new economic opportunities across the continent. Through major platforms like Lagos Fashion Week, GTCO Fashion Weekend, and Paris Fashion Week, African fashion is not only gaining global recognition but also driving a deeper conversation about representation, empowerment, and the role of fashion in promoting positive change. The future of African fashion is bright, with designers poised to continue influencing global trends and positioning Africa as a leading force in the industry, both creatively and economically.

References

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Nelson, C. (2024, November 11). Fashion + Beauty. Retrieved from OkayAfrica: https://www.okayafrica.com/tosin-ogundadegbe-stylist-gtco-fashion/

Yates, S. (2021, June 22). News. Retrieved from AfroTEach: https://afrotech.com/telfar-clemens-designs-olympic-uniforms