The History and Culture of African Natural Hair: From Ancient Times to Modern Trends | by Alice Oforiwa

Hair is more than just a physical feature for many people. It can also express one’s identity, personality, creativity, and culture. This is especially true for African people and their descendants, who have a rich and diverse history of natural hair styles and traditions. In this article, we will explore how African natural hair has evolved from ancient times to modern trends, and how it reflects and influences the social and political contexts of different eras.

Pre-colonial Africa

In pre-colonial African societies, natural hair was seen as a symbol of one’s identity and status. According to Lori Tharps, a professor of journalism and co-author of Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America, "Your family, your tribe all had their own specific hairstyle. Hair was also used to convey one’s age, marital status, occupation, religious affiliation, and other aspects of one’s life. For example, in some cultures, women would wear their hair in braids or cornrows when they were single and in loose or covered styles when they were married. Hair was also integrated into the spiritual and ritual practices of many African cultures, as it was believed to hold magical powers and connect one to the ancestors and the divine.

African people used various natural materials and techniques to style and adorn their hair, such as clay, oils, herbs, shells, beads, feathers, and metal. They also developed tools such as combs, pins, and razors to shape and cut their hair. Some of the most common and distinctive hairstyles in pre-colonial Africa were:

Afro: A round and voluminous hairstyle that showcases the natural texture and curl pattern of the hair. It was worn by both men and women of various ethnic groups, such as the Wolof, Mende, Mandingo, and Yoruba.

Braids: A hairstyle that involves dividing the hair into sections and weaving them together in various patterns and sizes. Braids could be worn in simple or complex designs, and could be decorated with beads, shells, or other accessories. Braids were popular among women and children of many cultures, such as the Fulani, Hausa, Zulu, and Ndebele.

Cornrows: A type of braids that are plaited close to the scalp in straight or curved lines. Cornrows could be worn in geometric or symbolic patterns, and could also be used to create other hairstyles, such as buns, mohawks, or crowns. Cornrows were worn by both men and women of various cultures, such as the Ewe, Ashanti, Igbo, and Yoruba.

Locs: A hairstyle that involves matting or locking the hair together into sections that hang down from the scalp. Locs could be formed naturally or intentionally, and could vary in thickness, length, and shape. Locs were worn by both men and women of various cultures, such as the Maasai, Nubian, Berber, and Rastafari.

Colonial and post-colonial Africa

The arrival of European colonizers and traders in Africa had a profound impact on the culture and identity of African people, including their natural hair. The Europeans imposed their own standards of beauty and civilization on the Africans, and often discriminated, oppressed, and enslaved them based on their physical appearance. As a result, many Africans were forced or coerced to change their natural hair styles and adopt more European ones, such as straightening, cutting, or covering their hair. Some Africans also internalized the negative stereotypes and prejudices of the Europeans, and developed a sense of inferiority and shame about their natural hair. According to Tharps, "The hair was one of these physical attributes that was very easy to point to and say, ‘Look at their hair. It’s more like an animal than it is like our hair. That’s what makes them inferior.

However, not all Africans succumbed to the colonial pressure and influence. Some Africans resisted and rebelled against the European domination, and used their natural hair as a symbol of their pride, dignity, and resistance. For example, in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, the Mau Mau fighters in Kenya wore their hair in dreadlocks as a sign of their defiance and solidarity against the British colonial rule. In the mid-20th century, as many African countries gained their independence from the European powers, some African leaders and activists also embraced their natural hair as a way of asserting their identity and sovereignty. For example, Kwame Nkrumah, the first president of Ghana, wore his hair in a short afro as a statement of his pan-Africanism and anti-imperialism. Similarly, Patrice Lumumba, the first prime minister of Congo, wore his hair in a natural style as a gesture of his nationalism and anti-colonialism.

Diaspora and globalization

The migration and dispersion of African people and their descendants around the world, especially to the Americas and Europe, also influenced the history and culture of African natural hair. In the new lands, African people faced different challenges and opportunities, and adapted their natural hair styles and traditions accordingly. Some of the factors that shaped the evolution of African natural hair in the diaspora were:

Slavery and racism: The enslavement and exploitation of African people by the Europeans and Americans had a devastating effect on their culture and identity, including their natural hair. The enslaved Africans were stripped of their hair tools and accessories, and often had their hair shaved off or neglected. They also faced harsh conditions and treatments that damaged their hair and scalp, such as malnutrition, disease, and abuse. Moreover, they were subjected to the same discrimination and oppression as their counterparts in Africa, and were forced or pressured to conform to the dominant standards of beauty and civilization. As a result, many enslaved Africans and their descendants developed a negative attitude and perception of their natural hair, and sought to alter or hide it. For example, some of them used harsh chemicals, hot combs, or wigs to straighten or cover their hair, while others cut their hair short or shaved it off completely.
Resistance and empowerment: Despite the slavery and racism, some African people and their descendants in the diaspora also resisted and challenged the dominant system, and used their natural hair as a tool of resistance and empowerment. For example, in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, the Maroons, who were runaway slaves in the Caribbean and South America, wore their hair in dreadlocks as a way of hiding in the forests and fighting against their oppressors. In the mid 20th century, during the civil rights and black power movements in the United States, many African Americans also wore their hair in natural styles, such as afros, braids, and cornrows, as a sign of their pride, solidarity, and activism. Some of the most influential figures of these movements, such as Malcolm X, Martin Luther King Jr., Angela Davis, and Huey Newton, sported natural hairstyles that inspired millions of people around the world.
Creativity and diversity: The exposure and interaction of African people and their descendants with other cultures and influences in the diaspora also stimulated their creativity and diversity in their natural hair styles and traditions. For example, in the late 20th and early 21st centuries, the emergence and popularity of hip hop, R&B, and reggae music and culture in the United States, Jamaica, and other countries, gave rise to new and innovative hairstyles, such as fades, high tops, twists, bantu knots, and box braids. These hairstyles were often worn by artists, celebrities, and fans of these genres, and became part of their identity and expression. In addition, the advancement and availability of technology, such as the internet, social media, and digital platforms, also enabled African people and their descendants to access and share information, inspiration, and resources about their natural hair, and to connect and celebrate with each other across the globe.

African natural hair is a rich and diverse phenomenon that has a long and complex history and culture. It has been shaped and influenced by various factors, such as geography, ethnicity, religion, politics, economics, and aesthetics. It has also been a source of identity, expression, creativity, and resistance for African people and their descendants throughout the ages. Today, African natural hair is more visible and valued than ever before, as more and more people embrace and celebrate their natural beauty and heritage. However, it also faces new and old challenges, such as discrimination, stigma, and ignorance, that need to be addressed and overcome. Therefore, it is important to learn and appreciate the history and culture of African natural hair, and to support and respect the people who wear it. Feel free to rock your natural hair like I always do.

Pre-colonial Africa

Afro: A round and voluminous hairstyle that showcases the natural texture and curl pattern of the hair. It was worn by both men and women of various ethnic groups, such as the Wolof, Mende, Mandingo, and Yoruba.

Braids: A hairstyle that involves dividing the hair into sections and weaving them together in various patterns and sizes. Braids could be worn in simple or complex designs, and could be decorated with beads, shells, or other accessories. Braids were popular among women and children of many cultures, such as the Fulani, Hausa, Zulu, and Ndebele.

Cornrows: A type of braids that are plaited close to the scalp in straight or curved lines. Cornrows could be worn in geometric or symbolic patterns, and could also be used to create other hairstyles, such as buns, mohawks, or crowns. Cornrows were worn by both men and women of various cultures, such as the Ewe, Ashanti, Igbo, and Yoruba.

Locs: A hairstyle that involves matting or locking the hair together into sections that hang down from the scalp. Locs could be formed naturally or intentionally, and could vary in thickness, length, and shape. Locs were worn by both men and women of various cultures, such as the Maasai, Nubian, Berber, and Rastafari.

Colonial and post-colonial Africa

Diaspora and globalization

Slavery and racism: The enslavement and exploitation of African people by the Europeans and Americans had a devastating effect on their culture and identity, including their natural hair. The enslaved Africans were stripped of their hair tools and accessories, and often had their hair shaved off or neglected. They also faced harsh conditions and treatments that damaged their hair and scalp, such as malnutrition, disease, and abuse. Moreover, they were subjected to the same discrimination and oppression as their counterparts in Africa, and were forced or pressured to conform to the dominant standards of beauty and civilization. As a result, many enslaved Africans and their descendants developed a negative attitude and perception of their natural hair, and sought to alter or hide it. For example, some of them used harsh chemicals, hot combs, or wigs to straighten or cover their hair, while others cut their hair short or shaved it off completely.
Resistance and empowerment: Despite the slavery and racism, some African people and their descendants in the diaspora also resisted and challenged the dominant system, and used their natural hair as a tool of resistance and empowerment. For example, in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, the Maroons, who were runaway slaves in the Caribbean and South America, wore their hair in dreadlocks as a way of hiding in the forests and fighting against their oppressors. In the mid 20th century, during the civil rights and black power movements in the United States, many African Americans also wore their hair in natural styles, such as afros, braids, and cornrows, as a sign of their pride, solidarity, and activism. Some of the most influential figures of these movements, such as Malcolm X, Martin Luther King Jr., Angela Davis, and Huey Newton, sported natural hairstyles that inspired millions of people around the world.
Creativity and diversity: The exposure and interaction of African people and their descendants with other cultures and influences in the diaspora also stimulated their creativity and diversity in their natural hair styles and traditions. For example, in the late 20th and early 21st centuries, the emergence and popularity of hip hop, R&B, and reggae music and culture in the United States, Jamaica, and other countries, gave rise to new and innovative hairstyles, such as fades, high tops, twists, bantu knots, and box braids. These hairstyles were often worn by artists, celebrities, and fans of these genres, and became part of their identity and expression. In addition, the advancement and availability of technology, such as the internet, social media, and digital platforms, also enabled African people and their descendants to access and share information, inspiration, and resources about their natural hair, and to connect and celebrate with each other across the globe.