By Innocent Ndlovu

Fashion designer, Elodie Fromenteau, talks to AMAKA about her latest SS23 collection, Ndabaga, and the significance of storytelling and history in fashion. 

“I love how bold she was,” says Izubaa’s Elodie Fromenteau referring to Ndabaga; the historical Rwandan female warrior who defied traditional gender roles by joining the army to save her father. Her influence can be seen and felt throughout the designer’s latest collection, from gender-fluid suits to the portraits of the legend printed on graphic t-shirts as a bold, recurring motif.  

This season also sees Fromenteau introduce a new streetwear line. “The collection this season is divided into two, offering a line of bespoke luxury suits made of 100% Italian wool and a prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) line offering more affordable streetwear pieces,” she reveals.

The suits come in loose fits with sharp shoulders and abstract patterns while casual wear consists of t-shirts, shirts, and matching denim sets for both men and women. The decision to add a streetwear line came easy to Fromenteau who explains to AMAKA that she wanted to appeal to Rwanda’s youthful population with a less formal approach to dressing. 

We recently caught up with her to chat about retelling Ndabaga’s legacy through fashion.

Inspiration In History 

AMAKA: You first unveiled your latest SS23 collection Ndabaga in Paris a few months ago. What has been the response like? 

Izubaa: The response was great. People loved it! I sold a couple of bags after the show and had a pop-up a few days later so people could see the garments up close and purchase anything they liked from the show.

A: How did the story of Ndabaga inspire you and what was your motivation for telling this important piece of history?

I: I’m moved by how much she loved her father. I think her love for him and her strong will in releasing him from military duty is so admirable. Love and courage go hand in hand. 

I grew up as a tomboy. I was even convinced that I was a boy at some point, dismissing all the girly outfits my mum wanted me to wear. I was also very close to my dad who passed away a year before I started Izubaa. Ndabaga’s story just deeply touched me for many reasons and I felt connected to her. 

She has become a legend here [in Rwanda] and I felt like her story needed to be shared, not just in my country but with the world. We need to change the negative narratives of the continent and tell more African stories of love and bravery because that’s who we are!

Behind The Process 

A: I imagine you had to go through a process of in-depth research. Can you take us through the making of this collection? 

I: It’s funny because my only intention when I came back to Rwanda was to know and understand my culture deeper. And here I am two years later digging into the history of the country through books, videos, and music to design clothes. I think it started when I visited the Richard Kandt Museum, which is named after the first colonial governor of Rwanda from Germany. I learnt how we used to live in pre and post-colonial times and that gave me a sense of the direction in which I wanted to take the brand. Then everything sort of flowed from that: the Ndabaga story, the research on traditional Rwandan motifs and so forth. 

A: In what way did you translate the legend of Ndabaga into the collection and how did you bring her legacy to life through your garments? 

I: Firstly, 85% of our clothes are gender fluid. Blurring the lines between genders and designing men’s suits for women has always been at the core of the brand. The second, and maybe the most challenging, was through designing our prints. We collaborated with a graphic designer to give Ndabaga a visual identity and I wanted her face to be literally on the clothes we were designing. We also used three Rwandan traditional motifs that we fused with other designs. For example, we created a fusion of the classic zebra print (zebras being very popular at the Akagera National Park) with the Ibaba, another motif meaning bird’s wing in Kinyarwanda. Having cultural elements like this and our mini Agaseke bag was essential in bringing Ndabaga’s legacy to life. 

Thirdly, Ndabaga, being a symbol of women and youth empowerment, it was important for me to design clothes that target a much younger audience. And this is what you’ll find in our new prêt-à-porter line. We have a reinterpretation of the military cargo pants, elements of sportswear like the Ndabaga tennis skirt and the Jordan suit which is inspired by Michael Jordan’s personal style in the 1990s and early 2000s. We also have  denim, and T-shirts printed with Ndabaga’s face from old Rwandan stamps, and our motto for this season which is “Be your own hero”.

Storytelling As A Foundation

A: Why is storytelling so important for your brand and to you as a designer? 

I: I think like in any art form, whether it’d be music, painting or photography you need to tell a story. Storytelling needs to be at the centre of what you create. Designing clothes for the sake of designing clothes doesn’t interest me. The power lies in the story.

A: What are your thoughts on history playing a role in the clothes we wear? 

I: Fashion constantly repeats itself. We get inspired by a certain era and we turn it into a modern version. History is vital for designers. 

Adapt And Reshape 

A: Your Agaseke bag is crafted in collaboration with artisans, using handwoven ancestral techniques. Can you take us through this process and some of these techniques? 

I: We collaborate with elderly women from the southern province of Rwanda to create our Agaseke bags. These weaving techniques have been passed from generation to generation. With the Agaseke baskets being one of Rwanda’s most symbolic objects, it was important for us to keep this tradition alive by turning these beautiful baskets into stylish bags.

The making of the basket is a long process that requires strength and patience. We pick natural plants that look like agave in humid areas and once cut, dried, and dyed we begin the weaving work. It can take up to a few weeks to get a finished bag.

A: You’re known for your bespoke suits and tailoring. What motivated you to add streetwear into the mix? 

I: Rwanda has a strong young population. I wanted to design for “the cool kids in town”, for the singers, artists, young entrepreneurs, and the hustlers. Streetwear is part of Black culture, and it runs in our veins, and I wanted Izubaa to be a part of it.

A: Do you follow the same approach for dressing men as you do women?

I: Most of our pieces are unisex. However, the approach when designing a custom-made suit varies from man to woman. Women (and especially African women) tend to have more curves, so we need to be vigilant when taking measurements to make sure we produce a perfectly fitted suit for our clients no matter what their size is. 

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