By Innocent Ndlovu

From streetwear to contemporary brands, these five names left a big mark at SA fashion week. 

At the recently concluded SS’ 23 edition of South African Fashion Week, designers not only showcased their creative visions but also their resilience in the face of uncertain and challenging times. With ongoing power cuts disrupting business operations, Shein's growing presence in the country, and a rise in the cost of living, the local industry, like many others around the world, is going through turbulent times. 

While these setbacks continue to make things more challenging for fashion players, at fashion week the effects were not as prominent on the catwalk. Held in Johannesburg, the event brought together new talent, emerging designers and legacy brands such as Thula Sindi and Sun Goddess, both of which helped define the early 2000s era of South African fashion. The event also welcomed brands from Mozambique and Italy as a continuing strategy to share skills and explore business opportunities between the countries. 

While there were many great moments throughout the three-day showcase, these five designers made a strong impression with their fresh perspective, distinctive tailoring and artisanship. Check out our top season highlights below. 

Boyde 

The first outfit, a pair of black dress pants, a white vest and a white unbuttoned shirt with the brand's “B” logo set the tone for Samkelo Boyde Xaba’s SS’ 23 showcase. Polished and ready for business, this season, the Boyde gentleman is upping his tailoring game with a semi-formal wardrobe of foundational everyday garments. 

Drawing inspiration from the functionality and minimalist codes of geometric modernism, the designer presents matching sets, trench coats, and relaxed suits that offer an easygoing approach to formalwear. The brand also debuted its new logo which appeared on t-shirts, white vests and a lightweight jersey. With a decidedly more mature attitude than in seasons past, it’s clear that Xaba is taking his followers with him on this personal and professional journey of growth. 

Fikile Sokhulu

Fikile Sokhulu started this year on a high with a showcase at Creative DNA Africa’s cultural initiative, where she presented her work at an exhibition during London Fashion Week alongside six other designers from the continent. Building on that success, this SS’23 season she focuses her attention on expanding that universe with the addition of bold colours. Picture a shoulder-baring fuchsia top and a blood-red midi skirt with a blossoming flower-like motif for example. 

As in previous seasons, the designer's delicate and distinctive signature ruching runs through the entire collection, adding volume to the sleeves of tunics and shirts. Playing with proportions, the brilliant, tiered dress with ruffles and a fringe hemline coupled with the closing outfit of complex but attainable layers of various separates provide gentle reminders of why Sokhulu is one to watch.

GuguByGugu

Gugu Peteni’s namesake label, GuguByGugu, embraces South African traditions and global cultures to craft modern streetwear inspired by Black beauty and identity, as well as subcultures such as skateboarding. Titled “Abantu Ba’kwantu”, Xhosa beadwork in rainbow colours and netted pieces form the foundation of her SS’ 23 vision. 

Honouring her passion for crafts and a commitment to sustainable materials, it's no surprise that this offering is largely made from locally sourced Mohair and Merino wool. Peteni made a strong case for crocheted pieces as headwear, or sleeveless tops paired with full suits or formal trousers.

Refuse Clothing Brand 

Capturing a youthful and energetic sensibility with vivid colours and eye-catching prints, Refuse Clothing Brand draws inspiration from its Nguni founder's heritage; an ethnic group in Southern Africa, to craft modern streetwear staples. Graphic trousers, knitted vests and golfers with stripes or striking patterns speak to the collective's passion for bold graphics. 

Offering classic streetwear with a South African twist, Refuse Clothing Brand’s approach delivers an exciting proposition for streetwear enthusiasts. Standout pieces this season include a knitted jumper and vest as well as a pair of shorts decorated with traditional symbols. 

Sipho Mbuto

Named “Ekhaya” a Zulu word which means home, Sipho Mbuto’s SS’ 23 range features  avant-garde style designs peppered with commercial appeal. Gender-fluid garments and flowing drapery is combined with artful layering in the name of minimalist ease. 

With its soft colours, clean cuts and serene attitude, Mbuto’s collection is a construct of anti-fashion dressing that defies seasonal trends. An almond latte-coloured shirt dress worn by a male model is styled with a pair of long trousers and a white overshirt while a similar coloured skirt with artisanal fringe details is worn with an off-the-shoulder, oversized lilac top and matching straw hat. These are daily clothes rooted in poetic expression. With a focus on restrained clothing and rich, quality fabrics, Mbuto is a minimalist master in the making.